Help with raspberry stitch

I am finally finishing my Florida Bag and the top pattern of k1p1k1, then p3tog is making me crazy. I can do the p3tog part okay, but the bobble…I don’t think I’m doing it correctly. Also is it done on the back of the work or the front? :??

If you do a k, yo, k into one stitch, it’s easier than doing the kpk into one stitch, and it ends up looking the same.

You work straight across on the front of the work and do the p3tog on the back.

As you get going, it gets easier because you can see where you increased the last time and know that this time you purl 3 tog.

I don’t know but OMG I LOVE THAT BAG!! That’s [I]exactly[/I] what I have been looking for.

You just posted that link to make me add yet another thing to my queue, didn’t you? Juuuust admit it.

I have a question, Jan, since now I’m wanting to cast on for this now Now NOW!

Do you think a cheap and simple cotton Peaches N Creme work for that bag? I have so many of those little balls rolling about…

The way this pattern is it’s all on one row- k1, *[k1p1k1] in next stitch, p3tog, repeat from * k1. Wouldn’t I still follow the pattern this way even if I change the bobble? I’m not sure where I’d do the p2tog on the back… :think:

I have 118 stitches on the needles if that makes any difference.

Umm… maybe. :shifty: :teehee:

I’ve knit that it would work, but I think you’ll get a nicer look with a better cotton. Shine has vivid colors and is really soft and kind of a shiny cotton…hence the name I guess. If you like the look of the dishcloth cotton you could use it though.

I really NEED to make that bag. Need might not be a strong enough word, but you get my drift. Thanks for posting it.

Is it hard to purl three together? Sometimes I have trouble with two, so I’m wondering if there is a secret to doing it right.

It’s slower, but not hard. I knit loosely though so if you knit tight it will be harder.

Wow…how cute is that! The ‘sampler’ sts and striping could be modified to suit anyone’s taste.

cam

Moxiemade, she got me too. :teehee: My queue is getting VERY long.

LOVE the bag! Can’t wait to see yours. Love her socks in the picture too! (I asked for that pattern)

Looking at the pattern I would think it’s on the front. The cables are on an even row and the (k1p1k1) p3tog combo is on an even row, so I’d think it’s on the front. If they are coming out on the back, try just pushing them through to the front, I’ve done that with bigger bobbles, it might work for this one too.

And Deb, if you start doing this and can’t get the p3tog, you may be able to p1 and slip it back to the left needle and slip the next 2 stitches over it. I know it works with a single decrease… that’s what I would try if I was having problems with it. Or maybe p2tog slip it back and slip the next one over that stitch…

That bag is darling. Question - I’ve never done a lining before. They mention sewing it in around the top. Do people use a sewing machine to do that? How would that happen with a knitted article? I would think it had to be hand-sewn, but they talk about a zig-zag stitch.

but they talk about a zig-zag stitch.

There’s a zig-zag stitch done by hand.

ETA: Not the best pics but check out the ‘catchstitch’:

http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=section/classroom/teachingTools_handSewing.html

http://www.sewing.org/html/el_handstittch.html

cam

I think I wasn’t clear.

I just did this on a sweater (which, of course, isn’t done) and the way it was worked was that the front was purled and the back was where you did the k1, M3, p3tog. . . .k1 row alternating with the
k1, p2tog, M3 row.

It’s not really a bobble, but rather a clump of stitches, so you can’t push them through. When you p3tog on the back, it makes the stitches on the front poof out.

You can do whatever M3 you want–either the kpk, or a k,yo,k into the one stitch.

But the inc 3 and dec 3 are being done on one row. Here’s the row:
"K1, *(K1,P1,K1) into next st, P3tog; rep from * to last st, K1."
The row after that is purl all stitches.

I’ve never done a lining so I’m not sure, but I’d think this would be best with hand sewing. Machine stitching is too firm for something like this with the loose stitches.

I ripped back to the change color row which is #57. Since the color change is made from the front (to avoid purl bumps) this means that the first increase is on that pickup row. Based on this the M3, p3tog rows are done on the back. Interesting.

I know you can go to the pattern, but this makes it easier with color changes for front and back. (I added the B and F). It appears a lot of people want to do this now so this thread will help them, too.

[COLOR=RoyalBlue][B]F[/B] -Row 57: Change to color H. M1, *K. Repeat from * until end of
row. (Sts on needle should now equal 116 sts.)[/COLOR]

[COLOR=DarkOrchid][B]B [/B]-Row 58: M1, *K. Repeat from * until 1 st remains; K1, M1. (Sts on needle should now equal 118 sts.)[/COLOR]

[COLOR=RoyalBlue][B]F[/B] -Row 59: P.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=DarkOrchid][B]B[/B] -Row 60: K1, *(K1,P1,K1) into next st, P3tog; rep from * to last st, K1.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=RoyalBlue][B]F[/B] -Row 61: P.[/COLOR]

[COLOR=DarkOrchid][B]B [/B]- Row 62: K1, *P3tog, (K1,P1,K1) into next st; rep from * to last st, K1.[/COLOR]

Okay, so I’ve got the sequence and placement straight, but if I actually make the bobble/bump asked for… when doing the stitch I know not to take the stitch off. Then I bring the yarn forward and do I put the needle into the stitch like a purl or do I bring it forward and just wrap from the front? And when I go to knit the third do I just move the needle up and wrap or put it through like a normal stitch? I feel like I’m going to get too many stitches or wraps on the needle. :??

This stupid thing is making me feel stupid and dense and I’m not! Honest! I may just do what Ingrid suggested, but I want to know how to do this, too.

Jan, if I understand correctly, this is like the Trinity stitch…right?

When I was first starting out, I wanted to make this stitch sooooo bad and had the same problems, so I researched like crazy and had my MIL help me figure it out also via webcam, and I made a really cute swatch with it.

If it’s the same thing, Yes, even though you’re knitting into the same stitch, you do the yarn in front/back for today purl/knits as if each is a new stitch. Here is a link that may help, as it has a video of someone doing that stich on there: Trinity Stitch Video. I’m pretty sure it’s the same thing and hoping this helps. :slight_smile:

I definately like the colors and shine to the Shine better than kitchen cotton, but the reviews of Shine scares me and a couple people who made the bag with Shine said that they’d not use it again as it quickly looks worn and tattered… That and some of the colors are backordered for a couple weeks.

I have a credit with KP so I was looking at other yarns. I’m wondering if basic ol’ WOTA would do well. Either that or Cotlin, but their nice colors are backordered for over a month!

I am very glad you’ve posted your question about the bobbles. I’m sure it’s something I’d run into when knitting it. I’ve gone and bookmarked this thread so when I do finally get to it I’ll be prepared. :slight_smile:

Azlynn, thank you! That does help! :yay:

Moxiemade, I started this when I was a new knitter and am finally finishing it. I just bought what was suggested. I hadn’t heard that about Shine. :doh: Any worsted weight yarn would work. :thumbsup:

Update - I finished the top of the bag. I somehow got one stitch off on the bobbles, but I’m not frogging. Thanks for the help! Still need to do the lining, seam the side and put on the handles. I’ll post an FO when I’m done. :wink: