Help with Pattern

Hello everyone,

I am currently knitting a pattern and there is currently one specific part that has me a bit concerned. It is the Bubble Stitch Cardigan by Paintbox Yarns. The part the currently has me confused is for the front and is as follows:

“Cont straight in patt until [54] rows fewer have been worked than on back to shoulder cast-off…”

I’ve already finished the back so I’m wondering if I’m supposed to count from the cast off and then mark 54 rows with a stitch marker (and then knit my fronts up to there and then knit the slopes). I hope I’m explaining my understanding well enough (if it’s even right). It’s just hard to honestly visual it right now and my stitch markers are so far down on the back right now. Anyways, thanks in advance :slightly_smiling_face:

Welcome to KH!
Yes, that’s exactly how to work this. Count down from the armhole edge 54 rows and mark the back at that point. Knit the front up to that mark to begin front slope shaping.

I don’t understand your comment about the current place of your stitch markers? Maybe a photo would help? Use the landscape icon to post a photo.

Is it possible to follow up on this post? I’m still the midst of knitting the front and I think I finally feel confident with how I counted the rows. However, I got ahead of myself and started thinking about the slope. What exactly does the pattern mean by “keeping pattern correct, dec 1 st at beg of next and every foll 4th rows…? Is this specific to the pattern (which consists of 12 rows to make the bubbles) or is this specific to regular increasing/decreasing (meaning I should look at these 12 rows in fours)? If it’s the latter, how do I determine which row is the “4th”, per the instructions? Sorry for all these questions, I’m just not used to taking on projects this large. Thanks in advance :slightly_smiling_face:

Is it possible to follow up on this pattern? I’m still on the midst of knitting rows but have questions about the slope. What is meant by decrease 1 st at beg of next and every following 4th rows until [17] stitches remain? I’m wondering if this literally means row 4, as in context with the pattern (consists of 12 rows for the bubble stitch) or is it like how you typically count every following 4th row (I would divide the pattern’s 12 rows up)? If so, would I best divide them, per the instructions? Sorry for the naive questions but I don’t have a lot of experience knitting largest projects of this kind. Thanks :slightly_smiling_face:

Good question on something that’s often confusing.
The rows are a general reference regardless of the pattern row. Typically you would keep separate track of the pattern stitch number and the decrease row number or spacing.
(You’ll find that since the pattern stitch rows are a multiple of 4 you’ll always be decreasing on the same pattern row. For example, if the next row is row 7, you would dec on row 7 then on pattern rows 11, 3, 7, 11, 3, 7 and so on.)

So, does this mean that it doesn’t really matter what row you start decreasing on, as long as you’re consistent (meaning if I start on 1, 5, 9, 13, or 4,8,12, etc, for example)? Sorry, I’ve been trying to make out where “beg” and “every following 4th” is in this case, and it seems to be right on a purl row if I’m following 1,5,9 if I’m to start at row 1. Is this normal? Could you also decrease on both purl and knit side rows? Sorry, it’s just because I’m not 100% clear on my start row yet (looks like it might be a row 6?)

row 1 and every foll alt row (ws) purl, using same color
as used for previous row.
row 2 using A knit.
row 4 using A knit.
row 6 (rs) using B K1 [1: 3: 3: 1], K4 below (see abbreviations), *K3, K4 below, rep from * to last 2 sts, K2.
row 8 using B knit.
row 10 using B knit.
row 12 (rs) using A K3 [3: 1: 1: 3], *K4 below, K3, rep from *
to last st, K1.
These 12 rows form patt.

Also, another question: how would you decrease a k4b without ruining the pattern’s consistency? Sorry for all the questions.

Thanks again

The pattern says to start decreasing at the beginning of the next row. The pattern suggests that this is a knit row but if you don’t mind decreasing in purl, go ahead. If you’d rather decrease on a knit row, purl across and start the decreases on the next row, a knit row.
You’re going to change the pattern stitch. You can see in the pattern photo that the front slope alters the pattern. Probably the best thing to do is to work the sts as stockinette sts giving up the pattern repeat closest to the front edge.

So it should ideally be a knit row in this case. So if the row I was to last worked on was 6, the beg and every following 4th would look like:

6, 10, etc., so in the case of the pattern: 6, 10, 2, 6, etc? (You start on the first row, the 6, and not the next one, the 10, in this case).

Also, I’m not sure I understand “giving up the pattern stitch”?

Yes, start the decreases on row 6 then rows 10, 2, 6 and so on.

You won’t be able to work the k4 below at the neck edge when you come to it. You’ll have to stop working that part of the pattern stitch just at the edge. Work in the background stockinette stitch instead

Okay, so just knit the k4b and make the decrease on the closest stockinette stitch (in this case, likely a k3 stitch after the *)in the pattern then?

You could try that. What I was suggesting was to work the entire repeat as stockinette. You’re making the last size? For example on row 6, the direction is k1, k4below etc. You would work those sts as plain stockinette in other words, replace the k4b with a knit stitch. Only work the k4below when it doesn’t interfere with the decrease.

Yes, it is the last size. Okay, so you were saying to knit those first few stitches to work the decrease and to pick up the pattern in the rest of the row (where the decrease isn’t relevant). Would this show up a lot in the final work? Should I also do this from the jump in every row (even when it’s not necessarily needed) to maintain consistency? Sorry again for so many questions!

You’ll see that in the following rows, you still won’t be able to work the full pattern at the front slope because of the decrease. It’s not going to affect many sts, just the ones at the front edge.
You don’t need to work any more sts in stockinette than necessary. Work stockinette in the following pattern rows where you have to.
The important thing to keep in mind is that you don’t want the pattern stitch to shift. It should still align with the previous rows.

Thank you. This is still all so daunting but I’ll do my best :pray:

I think this will be easier to see with the stitches in front of you than it is to think about. You can do it.

I think that may be the case as well. Thank you so much!

I hate that I’m bringing this up after so much time and after successfully completing the left front, but I’ve been having issues with the right front. I’ve tried to decrease in the beginning but after awhile, I notice the stitches shift (in this case, this looks like the pink puffs being directly being directly on top of the red ones, not as “diagonal”, and the puffs are less teardrop like). Is there a reason why this might be happening and is there a way I can fix it. So far I decrease in rows 6, 10, 2 on the first stitches and just knit the rows out (knit first few stitches in row 6 for decrease, knit row 12 as is)

Because of the decreases, you won’t be able to follow the pattern exactly as written. You’ll have to account for the decreased number of sts as you work the front slope.

The easiest way to work this is to make the decrease, then look at the sts in the row below. Figure out where to start the pattern in order to maintain the position of the puffs in alignment with the rows below.
You could also do this by subtracting the decrease from the beginning of the pattern row.

Okay, so it’s kind of like if I k2tog for rows 6 and 10, once I get to row 12 I still have to account for those two stitches decreased. So instead of k3, k4b,etc., it’d be k1, k4b, etc?

Yes, that’s correct. To double check, make sure that the puffs align correctly with the ones in the same color in the preceding rows.