Help with pattern abbreviations

Hello,
I am working on a hat and I have arrived at the decrease rounds.
I begin with K k2tog. I know what k2tog means but does the first K mean I knit one stitch first? I think so.

Then I K 11 and lastly I skspk2tog. I looked that one up but didn’t find it. So please help me with “[COLOR=“Red”][B]skspk2tog[/B][/COLOR]” Hopefully, there is a video.

Thanks,
Pauline

The website where I found this pattern is down so I can’t give you the URL. But the owner of the pattern is on Ravelry. Maybe she will fix her website. I have it printed out.
http://www.ravelry.com/people/alittlehomie

Yes, the k sounds like a K1 before doing the k2tog. The stitch count between decreases may confirm this.
sksp k2tog I haven’t seem before but it might be slip one knitwise, slip one purlpurlwise, knit 2 together? It should be defined in the pattern in a list of abbreviations either at the beginning of the pattern or at the end. You may be able to figure this out from the stitch count or from a photo.

Can you quote the entire line for this decrease line as it’s given in the pattern, please?

Can you tell us the name of the hat? Perhaps a photo is available online somewhere.

Earflap Stocking Hat
She didn’t include the definitions.
The hat is modeled by Kristin, who owns the pattern. Check the link in the last post. This pattern is not listed in her profile.
Thanks

I am sending her an email and if she is still active, hopefully, I can find the answer from her.

I went to the help forum at Ravelry and got an answer for this question that seems to be correct.

https://web.archive.org/web/20130112225931/http://www.alittlehomie.com/knittingblog/freeknittingpatterns/2012/earflaphat.html

The abbreviation skspk2tog means
slip 1 knit wise, slip 1 purl wise, then knit these 2 together

Now another question:
Row2 is a decrease round
Row3 is a different decrease round
Row4 says to continue decrease for 9 more rounds.
Does this mean to keep alternating Row 2 and 3?

Oh, sorry I do have one more question.

Since I can’t do dpn, would it be possible to change from size 7:24 circular needles to a size 6:16 at the end? Would this work for decreasing without messing it up?

Thanks,
Pauline

There’s a progression to the decrease rounds. It may be similar to other hats that you’ve made where there is one fewer stitch between the decreases on each decrease round. I would continue with either the lines of k2tog or the sksp k2tog to maintain the appearance of the decreases. Most hats just use k2tog.

Even if you change to a 16" needle, you’re eventually going to have too few sts to fit on it if you’re knitting in the round. You’ll need to go to magic loop or 2 circular needles if you don’t want to use dpns. If you’re knitting back and forth, you don’t have to change needles.

I’ve never heard of using 2 circulars. I’m going to look that up! And if I have a choice of which decrease stitch to use, I’m going to use the k2tog stitch.

The idea of switching needles, adding some to several different dpns all the while keeping up my counting for the stitch just stretches my brain too much!

Thank you very much!

Just think of circulars as really long, flexible double points. It’s not likely you’ll have four or five the same size, but two is entirely possible and most patterns set up for double points can easily be used by putting any stitch markers where they belong. Circulars are far easier and don’t stick out like a porcupine when you try to put your work aside.

The only place I can think circulars vs. dpns might cause a problem for a new knitter is some older sock patterns, where when you start to make the heel, you take this many stitches from Needle #1 and so many from Needle #3 or 4, but even that is easy to set up if you give it a little thought.

As much as I’d like to make socks, that is the reason I don’t…DPN’s. If I ever find a personal instructor, that’s the first thing I’d like to learn.

But tonight I am watching all the videos I can find on knitting with 2 pair of circular needles. Sock can come later. Right now I’m just trying to learn how to make a decent decrease on a hat.

Thanks!

In this video, it seems like she is knitting backwards from the way I do.

Looks like a good one to use for learning but holding the yarn in her right hand seems backwards.

Using 2 circulars, do you just keep knitting the halves and pushing them to the end of the needle and start knitting again each time. I guess I should practice that.

That video seems very nice. Yes, you’ll have to slide the stitches not being worked onto the cable and when you get to them, onto the opposite tip.

If you usually hold the yarn in your left hand, it may seem strange to you but many people hold the yarn in the right hand. It’s still knitting stitches from the left needle to the right (not backwards).

DPN for socks? Heaven forbid!!! :ick: :ick: I do socks on a long circ with magic loop. They can be done with two circs if you prefer. DPN have their uses but not as my go to tools for knitting in the round.

PS I guess you too knit the right way - Continental. OK, report me to the Knitting Police. I know there is no one right way to knit. :mrgreen:

But, GG, when you get to the tiny places, don’t you have to change to DPN’s?

No. I use magic loop for Judy’s Magic Cast and then work right on up to the bind off on the same needles. The pair I’ve got otn now is getting an afterthought heel. I increased for the gusset, set up for the afterthought heel on the original heel stitches, then did the decreases with a faux heel flap and heel stitch. I’ll come back later and do the heel turn as normal and Kitchener it to the top of the sock. Why bother with this? Because after 4 years of wearing sox I’ve knit I had to learn to repair the heels. :waah: :waah: This way I might be able to just remove the old heel and reknit it.

BTW I work mine 2 at a time, always. No Second Sock Syndrome for me, thank you very much.

PS: Because I’ve never done a heel like this before and haven’t seen a pattern or anything for doing it I think I’ll stop before I do more of the leg and use the other end of the yarn to do a heel and make sure it works out as planned.

PPS: If you work cuff down you can cast on for the cuff for magic loop or 2 circs and work right down to the toe. I’ve done cuff down but can’t seem to get the fit right, maybe because I originally learned toe up and am accustomed to it.

PPPS: Once in a while I’ll change to dpn at the top of a hat but usually just finish it with magic loop. It depends on things like how well the yarn is playing with the needles at that point in time.

Liat Gat of knitfreedom. com has many videos and she shows Continental and English but calls it American. She has some good sock videos, cast on for two at a time magic loop, others. You might check hers if watching English style is more difficult. Mostly it doesn’t bother me anymore but sometimes with lots of yo’s and the way the yarn gets moved back and forth I still can’t follow easily.

Addendum for full disclosure

I did the heel in the gusset and I used dpn for it. They weren’t strictly necessary but since the sox are on a circ it was the easiest way to go. I pretty much used them as straight needles. I did divide the stitches for one side onto two needles because it made everything easier to deal with. Wanna see? I tried it on. Taking a picture of my own foot isn’t easy. lol