Help with M1 in Elder Tree Shawl

I am knitting the Elder Tree Shawl (lace) and I am having some issues with the rows where the M1 stitch between two YOs occurs. It isn’t that I don’t know how to do M1, it’s that in this pattern, it also occurs where there is a YO on the row below. There isn’t a clear spot to insert my needle (such as the bar between two stitches on a fully knitted row below) - there are only two strands of yarn that are twisted. I was several rows into Chart B and decided that I wasn’t happy how my stitches ended up looking so I frogged it. Several others have asked about the M1 stitch but no one has replied. Any help out there?

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You could try a different way to increase. See if you like KLL or KRL for these increases instead of lifting the bar between sts. Sometimes also the increases don’t look so neat by themselves but when you see enough of them, the effect looks fine.


You would work into the stitch below the current row and then continue with whatever comes next in the chart.

Thanks salmonmac, I looked at the videos and tried those ways to M1, but it doesn’t seem to work for the pattern. It somehow seems to fill in the lace and interrupts the pattern. I’m going use some scrap yarn and try to work this out.

Have you tried teasing out one of the strands from the earlier yarn over? I know that you just have a twisted strand there at this point but I wonder if working part of that twist wouldn’t be the least disruptive? I’ll give it a try at home.

I was putting my needle into (well, it’s really a RS YO that has been purled on the WS row and now I’m back on the RS again) the twisted strand of yarn. It does work. The issue I was having was that when I looked at the areas where the M1 had been worked using this technique (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGbOiIvWLjc), the strand of lace is sometimes in front of the leaf tip, sometimes on the back. I also recognize that perhaps I’m being unnecessarily anal and it doesn’t matter. This is a question that others brought up and it hasn’t been answered by the author of the pattern, so again, perhaps it’s only a few of us who are having an issue.

Hi Salmonmac, originally I made the M1 into the twisted strand (which was originally a YO on the RS, then purled on the next row WS and then M1 on the RS , but when I had gone through one repeat of Chart B, I didn’t think the strands between the leaves looked consistent enough. And I know I am being pretty anal about this. There are only a few of us who have been wondering which specific M1 the author meant but there’s been no clarification. So obviously most people aren’t having an issue with it. BTW, this is the method I used to make my M1s: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGbOiIvWLjc. And thanks for your help and interest.

Thanks salmonmac. I was making my M1 in one of the twisted strands - but after completing one repetition of Chart B I thought things looked a little inconsistent. (It’s a YO on the RS row 15, then purled on the WS row 16, then I’m back to the RS row 17 with the twisted strands to M1 (using the technique from http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGbOiIvWLjc).
I realize I’m probably being too anal and only a few of us have asked for clarification of the specific M1 stitch. Clearly it hasn’t been an issue for the majority of knitters. It’s just that I have some really nice yarn and want to do really good job with it.

Thanks salmonmac, my reply keeps disappearing! I have been making my M1 into the twisted yarn (row 15 YO, row 16 purled the YO, row 17 M1 into the purled YO). Using this method for the M1:


It’s very possible I’m just being anal but, having completed one rep of chart B, I thought my M1s didn’t look consistent. Perhaps it really doesn’t matter. I just wanted to do a really good because the yarn I’m using is so nice!

Thanks salmonmac, my reply keeps disappearing! I have been making my M1 into the twisted yarn (row 15 YO, row 16 purled the YO, row 17 M1 into the purled YO). I’m using this method for M1: [URL=“http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGbOiIvWLjc”]
It’s very possible I’m just being anal but, having completed one rep of chart B, I thought my M1s didn’t look consistent. Perhaps it really doesn’t matter. I just wanted to do a really good because the yarn I’m using is so nice!

Thanks salmonmac. It’s quite possible I’m being totally anal. There are only a few of us who have been asking for clarification about which specific M1 to do, so obviously most knitters aren’t having an issue. It’s just that I’m working with the nicest yarn and wanted to do a really good job!

Thanks for your help salmonmac.

Well, I know what you mean about wanting the increases to look right. I’ve just changed a baby blanket pattern because I thought the increases looked messy. It’s a lot of work if you aren’t happy with the look as you go along.
I’ll be very interested to see how you’ve solved the problem. Trying to contact the designer is a good idea.

My posts have been disappearing- they show up and then they are gone! I’ve been using this method to M1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGbOiIvWLjc.
I’m into my second repetition of chart B and I’m trying to be as consistent as I can be where I put my needle into the twisted yarn but each spot isn’t exactly the same. It’s not absolutely perfect but I think it looks better. There’s only been a few of us who have asked for clarification - most knitters don’t seem to be having an issue with this. It’s a really lovely pattern from Ravelry and the designer hasn’t responded. Thanks again for your help.