Help with knitting pattern

How-to Questions
1

Hi,

I am really stuck with all this knitting jargon.
I really want to have a go at knitting a boob.
I have found a pattern but i have not a clue what it is going on about.

Any help will be greatly appriecated. Here is the pattern…

Double knitting wool – flesh coloured – 1 ball (choose your flesh colour!)
similar but darker colour - 1 ball
Pair of 3 ¼ mm needles/UK size 10

Cast on 6 stitches for base of breast
1st row. Knit
2nd row K1 [COLOR=“Yellow”](m1 k1)[/COLOR] to end. 11 st
3rd and every alt row to 15th row Purl
4th row K1[COLOR=“Yellow”] (m1 k1)[/COLOR] to end. [COLOR=“Yellow”](21 st)[/COLOR]
6th row K1 (m1 k2) to end. (31 st)
8th row k1 (m1 k3) to end. (41 st)
10th row K1 (m1 k4) to end. (51 st)
12th row K1 (m1 K5) to end. (61 st)
14th row K1 (m1 K6) to end (71 st)
15th row Knit
16th row Knit
17th row purl

Work, starting with a knit row, st st for 20 rows

38th row: K1, *K2 tog, K5, rep from * to end
39th and alternate rows: Purl
40th row: K1, *K2 tog, K4, rep from * to end
Continue to decrease in this way and after 3rd decrease change to darker wool to
make the areola.
Continue decreasing until the K1, *K2 tog, from * to end has been worked.
Nipple: st st 4 rows (see below for amendments).

Break yarn, thread through rem stitches, draw up and fasten off.
With work inside out, sew sides together but leave a gap for stuffing. Gather round cast on sts and sew seam.

In darker wool on the wrong side of work, make a draw-string stitch around the
base of the nipple, draw up and fasten off. If this stitch is drawn tightly it makes a
“Page 3” nipple. Drawing up less tightly makes a less prominent nipple.
Experiment to get the type you want. (Wish it were this easy in real life!) NB It is
good to have a variety of shapes and sizes, just as women do (very flat, very
small/large, inverted etc), so they can see that all can work!

Turn right side out and stuff. Close seam.

The things i dont understand i’ve made yellow … most of it then…

Thank you Annabel

2

Alright, m1 is an increase. basically, that’s saying you knit in the first stitch on the needle, then the yarn between that and the next stitch, you pull it up onto your needle as it is a stitch, then knit into that, then you knit into the second stitch, which is now the third stitch. On this site here, it shows a M1 increase with a pretty good picture of it…
http://www.tata-tatao.to/knit/stitches/increase/e-index.html

they call it a left increase, so look for that one (not far down really)

So, you’ll knit one, then do the M1, K1 to the end… that would be K1, M1, K1, M1, K1… You should end with a K1.

It’s the same anywhere it shows M1, K1… sometimes, patterns want you to K1, M1… that’s just the same thing, only switched around. 21st is yellow… st means stitch or stitches. There’s a lot of abbreviations in knitting patterns, which makes them nice and compact, instead of huge books for one thing. Most of the time you can really guess what it means and be right. Just about any pattern will use exactly the same abbreviations… for instance, they’ll all use the abbreviation st for stitches. http://knitknitting.com/abbreviations.htm lists a lot of them, at least, and probably all that you’ll use for now. I do notice they use dp for double pointed needles… there will be some people who use dpn for that but it’s mostly the same. () anything in those always means you repeat that and it’ll show how many times afterwards. For instance, (M1, K1) to end of row means you repeat that to the end of the row. (K1, P3) 4x means you repeat that four times.