Help with instructions

#42

These markers will give you 3 areas: right shoulder, center neck and left shoulder. It’ll help when you are ready to seam the right and left shoulders to the back. The center neck will be part of the stitches picked up for the neckband.

81D9232B-606D-43D8-A8DB-30BB10F4BE0D
81D9232B-606D-43D8-A8DB-30BB10F4BE0D2448×1500 359 KB

If you don’t want to work the mattress stitch to join the shoulders, you can use a more conventional sewing seam. In that cast you would pin the shoulders to the back with the public or outsides facing. Stitch along the edges like this (5:30 minutes for the stitch):


You would be seaming across the bound off edges, not the side seam but the method of forming the seam is the same.
#43

A bit stuck how to the next section

20220814_105105
20220814_1051053468×4624 3.08 MB

#44

This is the border or trim on one side of the hood. You have sts on a holder for the left side of the neck (that’s the left side as you would wear the jacket).
Knit across those sts, turn to the WS (wrong side) row and
purl across the row, increasing one stitch (a make 1, m1) just before the last purl.
Again turn to the RS (right side), increase by m1, knit to the end and turn.
Purl across the row, increasing by m1 just before the last purl.

Repeat the last 2 rows working the increases in each row 3 more times. Your should have the given number of sts for your size.
Now work 4 more rows but only increase on the first and 3rd of these rows.

You may repeat this sequence with similar increases for the right side of the neck, depending on your instructions.

1 Like
#45

How do I go from 38sts to 58sts?

20220816_125513
20220816_1255133468×4624 2.2 MB
20220816_125523
20220816_1255233468×4624 2.3 MB

#46

Sorry just worked it out but not sure where I pick up the 20sts from??

#47

You have some markers on the back of the neck, yes?
These mark the space where you pick up and knit 20 stitches. Look at how many columns or stitches you have across that section before you begin picking up because you need to space the 20 evenly. One in or very close to the stitch where the first marker is, one in the stitch where the second marker is, and 18 evenly between.

I just looked back at your previous message. You marked 20 stitches in the centre of the back so these are the 20 stitches, work into the centre of each of the 20 and you have perfect spacing and the correct number.

Hope this helps

1 Like
#49

Next Row: Knit to last st,

I think it is the “lazy” phrase “Knit to last st,” instead of showing the different counts by size.

Think of it as “Knit 17 [18:18:19:19]sts to last st, m1, K1”
Second size is 18 +1(m1) +20 +1(m1) +18 = 58

20220816_125513
20220816_1255133095×1130 739 KB

You just didn’t count the first 18 plus the M1 increase between stitches 17&18 before the pick up 20 across the back of the neck between markers.
Then you k1, M1, K17 for the 18 sts on stitch holder on the left side of the neck.

#51

Need a little help on how to do. Think I understand but not 100% sure. Thanks

20220822_110130
20220822_1101303468×4624 4.67 MB

#52

These are the instructions for the border ribbing starting from the lower right front (that’s right front as you would wear the sweater). It’ll help to place markers at either side of the hood and also along the resulting sections. So mark the halfway point between the top of the ribbing and the hood for example. Then mark the quarter points. That way you can more easily keep on track to pick up sts.
Here’s a video that may help too.


You’ll knit the next row and then work k1,p1 rib for the next 5 rows.

#53

Do all 275 sts go on circular needle?

#54

Yes, all the sts on a single circular if possible at least a 42" or longer. You want the sts to fit comfortably without crowding. If you don’t have one long circular you can use 2 circulars, just remember which needle you are working with when it comes time to switch.

You will be knitting back and forth. Here’s a video for knitting in the round (which you won’t be doing) but it does show how to work with 2 circulars.

#55

Hi, help needed again please.

How to I get from 80sts to 74sts?

20220923_161612
20220923_1616123000×4000 1.53 MB

#56

Hello
Instructions in a bracket (like this) are repeated the number of times given out side the bracket.
For second size
P4, p2tog
(P12, p2tog) 5 times - do Everything in the bracket 5 times,
P4

This is a total of 6 decreases.
Hope this helps.
Do ask if you are still confused.

#57

I hot it thanks

#58

Patteren 3457
When making this do I need to cut the wool for each new section?

Thanks

#59

Can you give us the name of the designer or company? Is this a JC Brett pattern? Maybe a link to a photo of the knitted piece?

#60

20221006_161453
20221006_1614533000×4000 1.83 MB
20221006_161503
20221006_1615033000×4000 2.02 MB

#61

It looks like you will have to break the yarn leaving an end long enough to weave in. Look ahead in the panels and see if a color currently in use is just shifted over one block in which case you may be able to continue with that color. In general you may not be able to do this.
You can weave in ends as you knit which will leave fewer ends when you finish. There are a couple of ways to do this but this one works without having to double the yarn in the stitch.

1 Like
#62

Pattern 3457

How is the best way to make this pattern.
I have bits of wool hanging every where.

Thanks

#63

There’s not that many tiers with the blocks shifted one to the side. That kind of regular pattern can be used to carry one color up a tier and lessen the number of ends.

However if you look at the color version of the blanket, you can see some places where the blocks do shift one to the left on the diagonal. You can take advantage of that shift to carry the yarn up, assuming that you’re following the color shift in the pattern.
For example, in the 4th and 5th tiers up from the floor the color blocks shift one to the left: two whites, two blues, two lavender, two purple and so on.
Anywhere that that occurs you can take advantage and plan to carry the yarn up without cutting the ends.

An alternative is to plan out your own color blocks so that you repeat the color blocks along the tier then shift them one to the left in the next tier. This would create stronger diagonal lines which you may or may not want. It might help to plan out the colors on a grid to see where you can cut down on ends.