[FONT=“Georgia”][B][I][COLOR=“Navy”]Hey all,
I have looked at the videos supplied on the website. But my knitting on double pointeds just look like someone has created lots of knots then looped it onto some double pointed needles!
HELP! Any tips would be very gratefully received! -I’m currently ripping my hair out!:wall: :hair: :waah: :pout: :verysad:
I’m also under a bit of pressure as this is hopefully going to be a present for a friend before she goes traveling. Its going to be a long term project too!
~Phoenix~[/COLOR][/I][/B][/FONT]
What are you making? Do you have to do dpns for the whole project? Or can you do most of it on circulars first and then switch?
DPNs still intimidate me; but, after watching Shandeh’s video on joining in the round, I was able to use them to finish a hat that I did on circulars first.:happydance:
Here’s the link to her awesome help…you can also find it linked in her signature. The first part is for circular needles and the second if for dpns.:knitting:
I kow that you’ll get lots of more detailed and helpful advice from experienced dpn’ers…but, anyone who’s looking for it this early must be anxious:teehee:
Thank you Shandeh!:notworthy:
[FONT=“Georgia”][B][I][COLOR=“Navy”]Hey all,
Its start in double pointed, move to circulars!
Its a shawl!
grabs the video!
~Phoenix~[/COLOR][/I][/B][/FONT]
Ahhh, so you’re probably starting with something like 4 or 8 sts and put on 4 needles. Don’t do it like that, it’s too hard. Put the CO sts on 2 needles and knit with a 3rd one for a few rounds. Then when you have more sts from the incs and more size to it, add another needle, then after a couple more rounds, add the next one and rearrange all the sts. So much easier than having to fight 4 needles with just a st or two on them.
Another “tip”. I put a point protector (I think that’s what you call them) on one end of my first needle so that I could easily recognize which one to start and end with and it helped me relax and not worry about my stitches falling off while I wasn’t looking. :teehee: If you don’t have one, you can use anything to mark it (if you have any oldfashioned pencils around, pull the eraser off and they work great.
Also, just sort of “ignore” all the needles except the one you are working on and don’t worry that you’re stretching the stitches…they’ll probably even out after you’ve worked more rows. But, when I first tried dpns I worried too much about if the other needles were up or down, over or under and got frustrated and quit…and when I ignored them and just concentrated on the one I was working on, it seemed to work.
Again, I only did it the one time…but, it worked great and I’m ready to try it again.:happydance:
I would definitely do what suzeeq says, that is start on straights (leaving several inches of a tail when you cast on), knit several rounds, and then split them up on dpns. Then it’s just like circulars, except, which I think someone on here described, it’s been chopped up into pieces. I found that a very helpful way to think. Also at that point, go back and sew up the seam with those several inches of tail.
That’s no quite what I meant - CO to one of the dpns, put half the sts on another then kind of fold up the cast on to join them, and continue with the sts on 2 needles and knitting with the 3rd. Many people do just work a row or two flat, then join.
I try to pull tight after switching to each needle but I still come out with a ladder effect that shows distinctly in my pattern. I was thinking of continuing to move a couple of stitches off each needle as I pass thru the stitches to avoid any real definite stitches on each needle. I hope this makes sense - this is my first time with DPNS.
Thanks