Absolutely no reason you can’t do it that way. If the pattern depends on you doing a specific type of decrease (say ssk rather than k2tog) to make it look right, then it gets a little more complex but only as much as you have to use the “matching” type of increase to make it look the same. Most of the patterns that are within my skill set aren’t that picky.
I just kicked off a hat for myself(!) yesterday where I’m sorta doing this. It’s 3x3 ribbing all the way up. Or down, I guess. Requires perhaps a bit more… visualization? starting at the top, but so far it hasn’t confused me too badly. I’ll let you know how it goes.
I did this with a raglan sweater. I guess it’s basically the same concept. I’ve not worked with drecreases and cables or other (what I consider) complicated stitch patterns.
Yep, you could cast on the ending stitches, though it sometimes works better to use 8 rather than say 12. If it ends with 12 though, you could CO 6, then inc to 12 on the first round. Patterns worked in the round seem to lie flat better with 8 incs every other round though.
Yeah, that’s the kind of thing I was talking about. It’s not complicated to do, you just have to know what mirrors what if the pattern’s dependent on the inclination of the decrease. Frankly, unless there’s a twist or cable or something involved, it probably doesn’t matter most of the time since there wouldn’t be a corresponding decrease to match up to in a hat. Usually.
I prefer making hats in the round, bottom up, because it’s easier to decrease in the round than it is to increase. Also, my bind off is never loose enough for a stretchy brim.
Grumpy Gramma said "I’ve seen that hat and have thought about making it. Will you post a photo?"
I didn’t have time to take a photo of it, we had to mail it today. Just Google Woot! Woot Hat and it should take to to website. There is a child and adult size
I’ve never noticed it being easier or harder to increase or decrease in the round, but to be fair at my skill level EVERYthing can be… ahem… challenging. So maybe I don’t notice the difference 'cos it’s all the same level of hard?
As for the BO, I have the same problem with it being not-stretchy, but I get around it by using a larger needle. My girlfriend will use one twice the size of the needle she’s knitted on for things like sweater necks that have to be really elastic, and her knitting is VERY relaxed to begin with.
Starting from the top down, you can run into problems with the fit if your bind-off is too tight. I do the crochet cast-on so my cast-on’s and bind-offs look the same.
Requires perhaps a bit more… visualization? starting at the top, but so far it hasn’t confused me too badly. I’ll let you know how it goes.
Thanks for the love 