I made this hat for a friends newborn (minus the design) with 60 stitches instead of 90. Well at the end of the pattern when you start decreasing it tells you to k2tog #k, k2tog … to end.
Well I can do a k2tog on the begining of each row but following the pattern I end on a #k and don’t have room to do another k2tog so one of the edges I have to sow together is straight and one is a decreased slant edge.
I thought maybe this was a problem because I had cast on a smaller number, so I did 70 nd stil have the problem. I worked it out on paper with 90 lines and crossed out 2 lines each time a k2tog was there and turned the others into a k and I still ended each k line without being able to do another k2tog. This happened for each decrease line, not just couple.
So I’m very confused and I can’t figure out how to match up the stitches to sow this hat together and… help? Obviously it wors because alot have made this hat.
If on your first decrease row you can knit 8 k2tog, and you should end with a k2tog when using 60 stitches. This will reduce your number to 54. On the next row, k7, k2tog. That will get you 48. Then do k6, k2 tog; k5, k2 tog; etc, until you run out of stitches.
I think that the way the directions are written is a bit confusing. It has a K2tog and then *k8, K2tog; repeat from * Mathematically, that just doesn’t work. To me, the way it is written is for a multiple of 10+2. I agree with Ingrid: K2tog, K8 (or K8, K2tog, it doesn’t matter) around, then K2tog, K7, etc.
And regarding one edge having a K2tog and one edge having a K8 (one slanted decrease edge and one straight edge), that’s how it should be because then the decreases are evenly spaced around - otherwise you’d have 2 decreases side by side, which isn’t the case over the rest of the hat.
Ok, well then how do I stitch together two sides like that? I’m having a terible time trying to match up the stitches as I can’t sow up anything properly yet anyway.
You will want to do mattress stitch for your finishing. Have you started the decreases yet? If not (and I’m sorry, I should have thought of this earlier) you would maybe be best to do your decreases as follows: start with a K1, then do your K2tog, K8 and continue on to the end of your row. This way, you will end up with a K7 at the end rather than a K8. The reason this works well is that it is easier for seaming if you don’t have a decrease immediately on the edge of your work. Hope this helps.