Hat help

I am knitting a hat whose instructions say to cast on 120 stitches then to place half of the stitches onto a life line. Later they have you attach these stitches from the life line but this leaves a definite row on the inside of the hat. I am looking for a way to attach the loose stitches to the working stitches for a seamless blend of the two and then to keep on knitting. Grafting would give me the look I want but you cast off the working loops. I want that look, but I need to be able to keep on knitting. Suggestions?

Thank, Karen

Can you give a link to the pattern or a pattern name? The stitches go on a lifeline or are they held on scrap yarn?

I don’t have the pattern with me but it isn’t a provincial cast on. They actually have you knit 4 rows, run a line and then pick up those stitches at the top of the inside of the hat. That made a very big ruffle. The next one I made I tried running a line on the second row. Still a ruffle but not as large. I like the idea of a provincial cast on but is there a way to blend that in with the working loops on the needle? Would k2t work? or would that still leave a ridge

Do you mean a provisional cast on? Is it worked flat (rows) or are you working in the round? I think you’re to end up with a double layer band? Do you know the name of your pattern?

Which half of the stitches are held? Are they all on one end or every other stitch or something else?

I don’t know that name, sorry, I picked it up from a gal on a yarn tour. It was her pattern. The hat is knit in the round making a very long tube. After knitting 12" or so you are to fold the tube in half brining the held stitches up to your working stitches. This is where I would like to figure out a smooth transition. You are going from the hat being double thick to a single thickness for the crown of the hat.
It ends up being like a watch cap with the bottom edge folded up over your ears and forehead (this is 4 layers thick now). do you understand what I am saying or am I making it too confusing. It is hard to describe.

I’d start with a provisional cast on, join to work in the round and move the held stitches to waste yarn. Later on I would knit the held stitches together with the live stitches on the needle similar to a three needle bind off. I don’t know if that will work for you or not, it’s worked for me when I wanted a “hem” for the band with the rib inside. The portion that is to be folded under should be a bit smaller IMO than the the outside layer so I would do the first half on a size smaller needle. I’d use the smaller needle for the cast on, maybe, but I’d have to do a test swatch to check. The reason I’d consider a smaller needle for the cast on is that the stitches you join to the live stitches would be less bulky. salmonmac and others are much more experienced than I am and will probably have a better response.

thank you for your reply. That is kind of what I was thinking. I will try a sample to see how it blends.

thanks again, K

I agree with GG’s good advice. I like the idea of casting on with the smaller needle to make the seam a bit less bulky. You could continue the first half on the larger needles (the same size as used to knit the hat) because it’ll get turned up for the 4-layer brim and so it’ll face the outside in the finished hat.
If you don’t want the join to show, can you fold the brim up so that it covers the join?

Clarification: When I wrote that I’d put the held stitches on waste yarn I was thinking of Judy’s magic cast on because that’s the one I typically will use. A crochet provisional cast on wouldn’t need this step.

salmonmac’s suggestion about the larger needles for the first part makes sense, I hadn’t even considered that the first rounds will be rolled to the outside.

I can’t think of a way to totally get rid of a line where all the stitches are joined together. It shouldn’t be too obvious except to the person who did it.