Does that mean I need to do total 4 swatches according to the gauge instructions?
Take chart 3 as example, can I just do the 8-st rep section?
Without anymore context on the pattern I would think yes, unless they correspond to different sizes?
As for this chart 3, if this is what they recommend to knit for a swatch it’s probably best to knit at least that. If you only do 1 rep of the 8-st section your swatch might not be precise enough. If they recommend to have 4” or 10cm to measure, that means you want the swatch to be large enough that you can measure that length past any edge that might change the behaviour of the fabric. I personnally like to make swatches at least 12 to 15 cm large so I can comfortably measure the 10cm inside of that. Then you should measure it when it’s fresh off the needles, and then after blocking, so you can see if and how the yarn changes after the wash and block to avoid surprises 
An imprecise swatch might be forgiving enough if the project is small or if the fit isn’t too relevant, but it becomes more important for a larger project. And the larger the swatch, the more precise it will be.
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It may be that charts 3 and 6 have the same stitch pattern, and again charts 2 and 7, so perhaps 2 swatches.
I’d go for at least 32 sts on chart 3 to make 4 repeats of the 8 sts.
What is the pattern?
The pattern I am trying to work is Lace Hoodie
Never thought gauge can be so difficult,
I believe I need to do 4 knits from beginning before I start the chart?
The Charts 2 and 7 need to work round?
I don’t understand why it need to be so many gauges/swatches. All same yarns and needles, isn’t one is enough?
In the pattern, they have lot of small charts. The instruction will tell you to work on Chart 2 in the middle of the row 1 and then Chart 3 etc., as you can see as below.
Some knit sts before and after the chart is a good idea. It will ensure that you measure over the middle 4 inches or 10cm.
Work the charts in the round? Only the sleeves might be worked in the round but you can check the pattern for the sleeves in that regard (see the link below, looks like the sleeves are knit in the round).The body of the hoodie is worked flat.
The pattern is likely only guiding you with 2 gauge swatches, for charts 2 and 3 for example. Probably charts 3 &6 and 2&7 are mirror images of each other to balance the pattern. With so much detail on this hoodie, time spent on 2 swatches is worth it. It’ll save ripping out or worse, knitting a size that doesn’t fit. In the end you’ll be glad you spent the time in preparation.
It’s going to be stunning!
As with all Vogue patterns, look for errata on the site.
Pattern #3, Lace Hoodie
Photo on page 45, instructions begin on page 74.
Updated: 23Sept2017
Corrections are underlined.
A corrected chart 6 is posted here for size medium only.
Sleeves, Beg Chart 7
For Medium size only, beg chart 7 with rnd 9. Work to rnd 80, then work rnds 1–60 once more.
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There are 2 different stitch patterns and that means a chance of one of them needing a different needle size than the other to acheive the gauge given. The main body is one type of lace and the pockets another. The swatch for the main body will really help get the size you want, and the swatch for the pocket stitch will help ensure the pockets lie flat at the correct size and not pucker the body of the sweater by being too small nor sag on the body by being too big.
I find swatches are a great way to practise a new stitch pattern as well as find out if I like the fabric produced.
It might be possible to do one now and one later if the pockets are worked separately. That would break up the job if you aren’t keen on swatches.
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As it’s knit bottom-up and seamed, you could do the swatch for the body to decide your needle gauge, and then start one of the sleeves and check the gauge after a few inches to be sure it works for that lace pattern. This partly depends on if your yarn will tolerate being ripped back if the sleeve isn’t working. If it’s very fuzzy, it might not be easy to pull out.
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Here are the charts.
For charts 3 and 6 seem alike from Row 1 to 15.
Honestly I really no idea how to start it at all.
For swatch 1, do I start from chart 3 Row 1 and then continue with chart 6 Row 1 bottom then Row 1 top?
For swatch 2, really no idea how to combine the two charts together and then join it into round.
Sigh.
It’s easier than it might seem.
For swatch 1 just use chart 3.
Cast on a multiple of 8 sts, i would do 40 sts and use 10 of these for edges in stockinette (5 each end) just because there is a yo at the beginning or end of some rows and having a few plain knit sts each end will help keep on track and easily work the yo.
Place markers at 5sts then every 8 sts until the last 5 sts
Row 1 of swatch, Work 5 in stockinette, slip marker, work the 8 sts marked as the repeat, work the same 8 again, and again, until the last marker, slip marker, stockinette 5.
Turn work WS row (ws rows are not on the chart, perhaps purl all, there should be a note in the pattern)
Row 3 of swatch, stockinette 5, slip marker, work row 2 of the 8 sts repeat, and rep this 8 sts to last marker, 5 stockinette.
Continue like this.
You won’t be working the increases, just the 8 sts marked, making a rectangle swatch.
The gauge swatch requires 22 sts in 10 cm for this swatch, you will have 32 sts in pattern and 5 each side in stockinette, only measure across the section in pattern not the stockinette.
I hope this helps.
There are methods for swatching in the round for the other swatch but maybe just start with swatch 1 and see how you go for now.
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When you’re ready to swatch in the round, you could simply work a few inches of one sleeve and measure that (you’ll already have a good idea of your gauge from the other swatch/sweater body). Or you could do a “fake” in-the-round swatch:
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Ok, will do.
May I ask why do you recommend to do 40 sts (8-st rep) + 10 sts (boarder)?
What about just do 24 sts + 10 sts? Or maybe 32 sts + 10 sts?
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Sorry, looking back I made a silly addition error in my previous post, it was late for me and i just typed a quick idea.
With 40 sts cast on it would be 4 sts each end and 32 sts of pattern (8 Ă— 4).
It could also be 40 in pattern and 5 each end.
It could as easily be 32 + 10 as you suggested.
There is no set number you must do, it just needs to be big enough to be useful.
Personally I would go bigger rather than smaller, to me 24 sts in pattern is just too close to the required 22 in 10 cm. It is just easier to measure if you have a good amount of sts to measure from. The stockinette each end may also alter the gauge of the sts between so I’d want to try to make a section in pattern big enough to avoid that as much as i could. Larger swatches always give a better idea of what the fabric will do. It may even be better to only have 1 or 2 sts extra each end to reduce the chance of distortion.
My main point, despite possibly confusing numbers, was that you don’t need to work the whole width of the chart with all the increases. You don’t need to move from chart 3 to chart 6. I was just aiming to give an idea of how to get started.
Got it. Ty very much
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I usually do 4-5 stitches of garter on the bottom and each edge, to reduce the amount of curling that stockinette likes to do.
Finally got my first swatch done. I don’t think I am getting 22 sts x 36 rows.
It seem like I am having 27 sts x 37 rows. Not sure if I am counting it correctly because is lace pattern like YO, SSK etc. Not straight forward as I like. Hehe.
FYI, he grid line is 1”.
Let me know if I did it wrong. I also find my knit seem unbalanced.
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This is very clever, putting the swatch on a grid. You know how many sts you cast on. Measure inside the first two sts in stockinette up to the last 2sts. Subtract 4 from the cast on number. Then you know how many sts in whatever the inches are that you measured. You can then multiply the number of sts by 4inches and divide the answer by your measurement in inches.
Say you get 33sts measured over 6 inches. 33stsx4 inches =132. Divide that by 6 inches (132/6 = 22sts/4inches) and you get 22sts/4inches.
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Got it.
I am thinking to start my project without doing the round swatch. Any suggestions?
Need advice for cast on. Which cast on is best to use on this lace project? I am using mohair/silk yarn.
I find it is not easy work on. It doesn’t seem even, as you can see from my swatch.
You could wait on the swatch until the body of the hoodie is finished. You might even work the sleeves flat depending on how the lace pattern is written. If every other row is a purl row you can just add a stitch each side of the center underarm for seaming and work back and forth.
The German twisted cast on is a nice one with more stretch than the usual long tail.
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