Favor (Problem solved, thanx knitqueen!)

can somebody knit me a 4 x 4 swatch w/ size 4 needles and dk yarn so i can get an idea of the gauge for this pattern?

i dont have either the needle or the yarn. dont blame u if nobody does it, but u cant blame me for trying right? :teehee:

:shrug: But what if that person knits tighter or looser than you? Could make a big difference… :??

true, but since the pattern has absolutely no gauge specified, i still want some1 to give me a little idea that i can build on

For this pattern, I’d just CO 40 stitches and knit a few inches. It’s small, it’ll go fast. If it seems too big, CO 36; if it seems too small, CO 44.


I suggest you go to www.yarndex.com and choose a DK weight yarn and go with the gauge that they list. :shrug:

I agree with sq … experiment with yarn and needles you have until you find something that fits :slight_smile:

Why stick to dk yarn? The pattern is pretty straight-forward, so it’d be easy to adjust it to work with any yarn. (Might as well use a yarn that works with needles you already have, right?) What I would do is this:

[ul]1. Do a gauge swatch to figure out your stitches per inch in the yarn you want to use.

  1. Measure the circumference of your hand, and subtract 10% or so for negative ease (to get a snug fit).

  2. Multiply this number by your gauge. Round to the closest number divisible by 4 (since you’re using 2x2 rib). Add 2 for selvage since you’ll be seaming.

  3. Cast on the number of stitches you got in 3.[/ul]
    You can follow the rest of the directions from there.

thanx everybody. i understand waay better now. suzeeq and janelanespaintbrush, ur comment helped a lot

i’m sure i’ll b done in no time!

I’ve made a couple pairs of fingerless gloves and I like using worsted yard with #6 or #5 needles. Makes them nice and thick and warm.There are lots of patterns out there for fingerless gloves with more information than these.

i’ve got a couple of Q’s about this. first, do i measure the circumference of my hand or my wrist? second, if i make this same pattern in the round, how do i leave the hole for the thumb?

I’d measure around your hand, since the ribbing will naturally pull in at your wrist. If you do it in the round, then when you get to where you want your thumb to be, simply switch to knitting back and forth for a few rows, then rejoin and finish up in the round. If you want, you can pick up stitches from where you switched to back-and-forth knitting to make a thumb cover as well.

Hmm, Now I want to knit something like this. I think there are some new cable patterns calling my name…

For the thumb hole, you could also knit some stitches on scrap yarn, put them back on the left needle, then knit them again with the “real” yarn. After you’re through, pull out the scrap yarn, put the stitches onto DPN’s, and knit around.

hmm, i think i understand what you mean. i’ll be using the magic loop method, though. will this affect anything?

:wall: can’t seem to get this right. if i knit back and forth, won’t i have holes on both sides instead of just one hole for the thumb? :hair:

No, you won’t have holes on both sides. If you’ve been knitting in a tube up until the thumb hole and you start knitting back and forth from there, it’s like you’re still starting the row at the beginning of your round and finishing at the end of your round, but it’s not joined in the round. A piece of knitting done flat, back and forth only has two edges, right? Those two edges are what form the hole that your thumb will go through. Once the thumb hole is big enough, you go back to working in the round.

Does that help?

I’m still pretty confused. Do I knit back in forth for a few rows on one side (remember, i’m doing magic loop) and then the other to get the hole, or am i knitting back and forth several times on alternating sides. aak, that probably doesnt make sense, the point is i dont get it :hair:

You will knit back and forth on ALL of the stitches. Let me see if I can explain this step by step.

Say you’ve been working in stockinette stitch in the round. You do that until you get to the point where your thumb hole should start. Now, instead of starting a new round you will turn you work around and your working yarn will now be coming from the first stitch on the needle held in your left hand, and the purl side will be facing you. I know you’ve been doing magic loop but for this part, since you’re not working in the round at the moment you don’t need to have the ‘loop’ pulled in between the halfway point of your stitches – pull it out so that all of the stitches are back on the cable portion of the needle. Now, with the wrong side facing you you will take the empty needle end and start purling. You will purl ALL of the stitches that you have on your needle and when you get to the end you will turn your work around again and this time you’ll knit all the stitches. This will feel awkward for the first few rows because although you are technically knitting “flat” at the moment, it IS a tubular object, but after the first few rows it will get easier. Repeat purl rows and knit rows, turning your work around at the end of each row, until you have a section large enough for your thumb hole.

It would be easiest if the last row you work in the back and forth section is a knit row. That way, when you’re ready to join in the round again, the working yarn will be in the right place, you can divide your stitches in half again by pulling the magic loop out at the halfway point, and you’re good to start in the round again.

Is that a little clearer?

:figureditout: yes! that was much clearer! thank you :muah: i think my biggest problem was i thought i would be knitting flat with the loop, which really just left me confused, but i understand now :cheering:

I’m glad someone was able to clear it up for you! Sorry I didn’t reply in time!