Dropped Cast On Row

Hello,
I’ve been knitting for about 2 years, so I think I’m kind of an advanced beginner. I’m starting a new project, got confused after casting on because the pattern said to switch to a smaller circular needle. In the process, I ended up dropping (and then pulling off) about 50 of my cast-on stitches. Is there anyway to put these back on the needle? It’s just the cast on row, nothing else and is attached to the working yarn.

If I can’t put them back on the needle, can I cut the yarn and attach it somehow to what’s still on the needle and finish my cast on row? Or is it best just to rip the whole thing out and start over!?

I’ve looked for a video on this, but haven’t been able to find anything so far.

Thanks, in advance, for your help!

If it’s only the cast on on the needle then just take the strand of yarn and continue casting on. If it’s not can you take a picture so we can see what you mean?

Also…switching to a smaller needle is easy. Just start knitting the smaller needle and when you get to the end set the large one aside.

Hi Jan,
Thanks so much for your reply. Here is a picture.

It is only the cast on yarn, but not 100% sure what you mean be take the strand of yarn and continue.

I think I see what the problem is. When you change to a different size needle, it should be done as you knit the next row.

There really is no good way to pick up dropped cast on stitches. Every time I’ve tried they get turned upside-down. I would start over with casting on the required stitches and work the first row of the pattern with the smaller needles.

Thanks, Metylda,

Not what I wanted to hear, but what I’ve suspected all along! Guess I have
to just face reality and start over!

What are you working on? I’ve not encountered a pattern that specifically says to cast on with a larger needle nor have I found a good reason to do it that way otherwise. I’m wondering why. There are ways to have a very stretchy cast on, if that’s the intention, and use the needles you’ll be working with. But Jan’s got it, just knit from the needles you used for casting on with the smaller ones.

Yep, just rip it out and start over. We all have to do that occasionally. :slight_smile:

It’s a cowl. It doesn’t call for a stretchy cast on. I’ve attached the
pattern here.

Apparently, I can’t attach pdfs, so I’ve pasted here the directions about
casting on and switching needles. Some people have expressed surprise at
these directions. Any input is welcome!

Using 5mm/US8 needles , cast on 260sts (or any multiple of 2) and join
making sure not to twist. Place marker. Change to 4mm/US6 needles and knit
garter edge as follows:

26 Round Pattern (2st repeat)
1: Purl
2: Knit
3: Purl
4: Knit
5: Purl
6: Knit
(Weigh here for indication of how much to leave for other end and cast
off).
7: (YO, K2TOG) repeat to end.
8: Knit.

Repeat the last 2 rounds 9 times (26 rounds worked from cast on).
(Weigh here for indication of how much yarn is required per 26 round
repeat. Sample used 37g)

Repeat the last 26 rounds twice more and then the first 6 rows once more.
Cast off loosely using larger needles or using a stretchy bind off method
(link on pattern page) or any method that works for you!

I guess it’s a way to avoid a too tight cast on edge. IME it makes a sloppy first row but others like it. Knitter’s choice.

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Best way is to avoid mistakes, and all of us make them. You can pick those stitches back up but not with a larger needle, it is easiest to pick them up with a smaller needle than you originally cast them onto. Go down 2 to 3 sizes or pick them up with a darning needle threaded with waste yarn. With a large cast on, it is likely you will have a few cast on stitches which will start looking terrible however.

The trouble with picking up these stitches is that many people don’t see the mount of the stitch when there’s nothing knit onto the stitches yet, but this mount of the stitch will look odd if you don’t knit it correctly.

A small circular needle, like size 1 or 2 is fabulous to pick up your cast on. But a cast on is also quick to do. And there are other cast on methods which let you make a loose cast on which is stretchy.

Many people like to cast on over both needles to make their cast on loose. It does make knitting the first row easier. But as said above, changing to a different needles was not the way the pattern meant even though it is a way many people would interpret that. Knitters just are going to knit the next row onto the needle of your pattern as that is one of the standard abbreviations in knitting lingo.

Struggling with a section of yarn also does not let it look very pretty and you may not like what it now looks like as the stitches are fuzzier, sometimes splits the yarn.

If you use interchangeable knitting needles you change the one you are knitting onto, then when that is done, change the one now empty as I’ve had my stitches not be too happy the other way around.

I have decided that being happy with my final result is better than not finishing a project. It is better I fix it so that I want to finish than to say I am wasting my time and let it go.

One of my favorite cast ons is the crocheted cast on, which can be used with waste cotton yarn and can be taken out. This is handy for many reasons, as if your cast on was not loose enough, you can easily take it out and use a stretchy bind off as now you’d be knitting the other direction.

I also like the way it looks as when you slip the first stitch of the selvages, it makes a finish for the work which is identical and also identical to my cast off. Great for scarves. (Actually good for most everything) even though I use the slingshot method most of the time but I’ve learned how to make it loosely over the years.

If you just used hand cream, is not the time to do cast on. Hands need to be dry also and if it is humid, I have a dry wash cloth to keep my hands dry. (Even sit under a ceiling fan of use a desktop fan).

I also buy extra yarn so if I have trouble knitting with the needles I often use which is bamboo, I can experiment with other needles and as I have found that knitting a gauge swatch is not optional unless you are making an afghan, extra yarn is best to buy, and if you keep your receipt and finish the project soon enough, you can take that extra unused skein back and exchange it for something you now need.

A post was split to a new topic: slip stitch help

I’ve been knitting for just over 50 years and casting on with a larger needle is protocol with most patterns. I teach knitting and have been instilling the cast with a larger needle with them for 30 years. In order to do it correctly, the knitter must know to work the first row with the correct size needle starting on the first row after the cast on, which I believe is the part that was missed here and as has been pointed out by other knitters here. The other thing that I teach my new knitters is to place a marker every 50 stitches, so that if they lose track of the number of stitches, they never have to count more than 50 at a time.

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Please explain “casting on with a larger needle is protocol with most patterns.” Patterns I’ve used don’t specify using a larger needle. It’s so easy to do a stretchy cast on with the needles I’ll be working with that I see no reason to bother with a second set. I learned early on to do a stretchy long tail cast on and variations that make it even stretchier. I’m wondering what other protocols I’m violating.

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Thanks, sallybode, for the great info! I did just end up starting over and switched to the smaller needles. It looks like the cast on edge will be distinctive and almost scalloped. Will see in the end! Thanks, again.

The problem stems in that you did not understand what was meant by that instruction to change to a smaller needle size.
In the next row you are working, you simply use a smaller needle size. Nothing more!! Don’t make it more complicated than it is. Simply follow the directions EXACTLY AS WRITTEN! Do not try to re-think what the designer has meant. Just do it as it was stated.
Change to a smaller needle size means just that – CHANGE to a smaller needle – in the next row. Simple as that. There is no dropped stitches, and no problem!!

Thanks for your reply, Vaughn_De_Leath! I appreciate you taking the time to weigh in! Good advice both for this project and future ones! Now that I’ve seen how simple it is, I get it. :0)

When you have a chance, it is really useful to learn to knit backwards so you don’t have to turn. I’m doing an all cable afghan and it is more fun to work on the front. But I also find that I’ll have a stitch or two hop off the edge on me, and it is easy to pick it up now as I understand how to fix it.

Slowly I’ve invested in double points as the short ones are very useful. I can reknit a very small section and doing the knit backwards, can see what I am fixing.

I have knit since I am 7 or 8. Am now 64. I try to learn to do something new to challenge myself. I haven’t run out of things to try. But it is all good, keeps the brain nimble and the fingers free of arthritis.

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