Hello! I’ve picked up knitting again after a very very long hiatus and happy to find this forum! I decided to try a simple hat, and all went well until I attempted to switch to dpns when the crown got too small for the circular. Double-pointed was a steep learning curve – I ended up frogging the whole thing and starting again. This is fine, as I’m using this project as much for practice as anything else. But here’s my question: should I persevere in learning to work with dpns, or should I follow the video to learn how to use two circulars? Which might be easier, and which might be more useful in the future? Thanks for any advice you might have.
Regardless of what people will tell you, just use whatever works best for you. You do not need to use two circulars, you can do smaller circumferences with just one, if you use the “magic loop” technique. There are plenty of videos on Youtube about this technique.
Personally I prefer DPNS for everything with smaller circumferences (hats, socks, sweater arms and collars) and circulars for bigger circumferences (the body of a sweater). I am faster with DPNS than with circulars.
How many DPNs were you using? Oddly, more is usually better. Dividing the stitches onto 4 needles gives you a better angle to work than 3, although it’s more to hold in your hands. I’m so used to circs, I keep dropping my DPNs whenever i finish a needle.
I personally prefer 2 circs or 1 with magic loop, but everyone is different. It’s good to know several techniques.
I can’t knit small circumference in the round at all. I have considered trying DPNs as, for me personally, I think I’d find them more comfortable for my knitting style. The words “simple” and “hat” can’t be said together in my world!
If you have 2 circulars the same size why not give it a go and see if you like it? If you have interchangable circulars you only need one pair of correct sized tips, the other end of the cable can be a little smaller. This might influence if you want to give it a go if you know you have the tools.
With the DPNs you could cast on just the number you had at the top of the hat and knit a tube for a while until it’s more comfortable, then try the decreases from your hat pattern and see how it goes. It’s much less to frog and reknit if it doesn’t go quite right to begin with. I am a fan of swatches and practise pieces.
It’s worth trying different techniques to see which suits you. Enjoy the challenge.
I can use dpn and sometimes do. I much prefer magic loop mainly because of fewer moving parts. With two circs I’ll end up with all the stitches on one and drop the empty needle. With dpn I’m forever trying to find the empty needle I dropped. All knitters have preferences and IMHO trying them all is the best way to find out what you prefer. Had I learned to knit in the round with dpn I might actually prefer them but think I’d still keep losing one.
@ColoCro I was using 3 DPNs. I wonder if four would have counter-intuitively been easier?
First error I made was to knit the wrong side of the hat, leading to purl stitches on the outside. I’ve had a little help to understand how that happened and I think I won’t do that again (famous last words).
Then I had situations in which I was to k2 together but had just one stitch left on the needle, so had to manipulate the needles to create a pair. Awkward.
@Creations Doing a practice tube is a great idea. I currently don’t have a second circular nor interchangeables nor a magic loop. I need to raise my game with supplies (great excuse to shop!!).
Try all the different ways of working small circular knitting that you can. Then decide which is the most comfortable or at least looks promising. I use bamboo dpns because the grip on the yarn is better than metal dpns but that just happens to work for me.
Regarding knitting inside out, in many cases you can flip the knitting so that the purls are to the inside. This may not work but is worth a try.
Thank you. I think I’ll start another thread asking for specific gear recommendations. There are a LOT of choices when you poke around online!
I appreciate the suggestions to experiment with swatches of different methods. This will benefit my future knitting on all projects for sure.
As for the inside out issue, I hope that now that I understand how it can happen, I will be able to catch the problem immediately if I make that mistake again and change course. She said optimistically…
You know, it wouldn’t be perfect but if you have 2 circulars of a similar size, say 3.5 mm and 4mm, you can try a practise tube just to get the feel of it. Some patterns after all are purposely knitted on different size needles to create an interesting stitch pattern. It could help you decide whether to pay out for more supplies, or not. I class myself as a budget knitter and only buy new tools if I really need them, even then I’ve shelled out on a reasonably expensive set of needles that I now never use.
Magic loop is worked on a circular with a longer cable so rather than a particular type of needle it is a method of using a circular needle, long enough to share the stitches out and have a loop of cable in excess. You might be able to try this wih a circular you already have, if you have one that is.
As I said I don’t use DPNs but I do think about it. I think for me I’d want to use 4 or 5, I feel the more points the better.
One tip about dpns, the top of a hat is the best place to practice this. You have a knit tube as a base and are switching to the dpns. It’s not so easy to start a cast on with dpns flying every which way.
Thank you – I hadn’t considered this. Could I knit a few inches of a base rather than an entire hat, though? Having recently ripped apart a whole hat I’m reluctant to do that again, nor am I confident I could recover all the stitches if I do have to take out several rows. (That’s another skill I need to practice.)
Yes, just cast on maybe the number of stitches you have on your hat before the decreases, then knit several rows before you switch to the (4!) DPNs. Knit a few more rows to get the hang of them, then start the decreases. Also yes, you’ll sometimes have to shift stitches from one needle to another, in order to have stitches to knit together.
I find it works best to have my left-hand needle on top of the others, so I adjust as I get to the end of each needle.
They come in sets of 5, so you set up with stitches on 4 and use the 5th one as your right-hand needle. Work to the end of the first needle, try not to drop the one that’s now empty, and use that one to work the 2nd needle. Repeat as needed!
And for me metal dpns works best, because I prefer a really good glide. Knitting is so much about preferences and there is no solution fitting everyone.
Hazel Tindle only uses 3, 2 for the stitches and 1 to work with. However many there are I’m sure I’d get frustrated and lots of ladders! I do wonder sometimes about getting the very long DPNs though rather than the shorter ones. I don’t think I’d manage to get a belt on but the lever knitting method with the needle under the arm could suit me. There are always more things to try.
Before doing anything you are unsure of you can place a lifeline, it will save your stitches on that row so ripping out is less painful. I reuse the same lengths of embroidery thread (thin and slippery) over and over for life lines and for placing lots of stitches on hold. Here’s a video
When I was introduced to life lines (here) I couldn’t believe such magic existed!
I use 4 DPN for stitches and knit with 5th for smaller circumstances. Learned that from my mama and never knew people knit with less DPN until we came to US. IMHO it looks awkward to me to hold needles at wrong angle. TRY ( you might like it)
When you thread your lifeline, are you always sure you’re on the right row? I considered this when I was deciding what to do about my messed-up hat crown, but wasn’t confident I could place the lifeline correctly. Also, my hat was in the round whereas the couple of lifeline videos I’ve watched have been on flat work. It does sound like a really great method when done properly!
( you might like it)