Okay, I’ve been knitting for about a year now and i have a question about double knitting. Can some one tell me how to do it please, the volume on the computer doesnt work and i cant hear it so some one please help me please 
I never figured out the actual cast on, but what I do is cast on holding both yarns together, then divide them so that each cast on stitch is knitted AND purled. this means, if I’m knitting black and yellow, each cast on stitch is made up of a black strand and a yellow strand, right? If black is the main color, knit one black and purl one yellow by using each strand seperately. Each “stitch set” is a knit stitch in your main color followed by a purl stitch in your contrasting color.
When you are switching your yarn from front to back, carry both yarns together - in other words when you go to knit your main color, both yarns should be in back, but you only wrap with the main color yarn. Then put both yarns in front and purl with your contrasting color.
The other stitch set you can do is to knit one with your contrasting color and purl one with your main color.
Here’s a pattern for a hat:
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]The Super-Warm Winter Hat[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Materials:[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Two balls of yarn in similar weight, and different colors (you can do this with two of the same color, its just really hard to keep the yarns straight)[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]1 circular needle in a size appropriate for the yarn[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]4 dpns in the same size as the circular needle[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Stitch markers[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Notes:[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]For simplicity, I am going to use the following notations:[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]M – k1 main color, p1 contrasting color[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]C – k1 contrasting color, p1 main color[/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]Think of each set of two stitches as a single stitch set, and don’t finish for the day after doing a knit stitch until you’ve got the hang of it. [/FONT][/SIZE]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Typically, if the hat I am knitting fits my head, it will fit the heads of most people unless they are unusually large or small people. Before you begin, you should probably measure and check your gauge to be sure that you cast on the right number. For this pattern, use multiples of six. The number I usually use is 90. That is the number of stitches that I will use for the instructions. If you have problems with adjusting this number, please let me know.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]The DECREASE:[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]When you get to where it says Dec M, here’s what you do (You may want to practice this a couple of times before you get to the hat):[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Slip your needle knitwise under the next two main color stitches. Its just like doing a k2tog, except you have to be sure not to pick up the contrasting stitch between these two.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Knit these two together, but when you take them off the other needle, be sure that you don’t knock the contrasting color stitch off.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Now, do a p2tog with the contrasting color stitches that are now right next to each other on the needle.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Continue on your merry way. Its really that easy![/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Begin:[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Holding both yarns together, CO90 on the circular needle. Place stitch markers every 15 stitches. You may have to knit a few rounds on the dpns, if your circ is too long.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Place a double marker (or if you have a special marker, use it. Just so its different from the others) as you join the stitches in the round. Still holding both strands together, k1p1 rib for one round.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Here’s the fun part. Separate the two strands. Now observe the stitches you have already made: each one has two strands in it, right? We are now going to treat each strand as a separate stitch. Pick up one strand to knit with the main color, then pick up the other to purl with the contrasting color. Continue all the way around.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Congratulations! That was the hard part. Every other stitch should now be a different color, starting with the main color.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]M sets for 15 rounds. This should be about the height of your ear. [/FONT][/SIZE]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]C sets for 2 rounds.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]M sets for 2 rounds.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]C sets for 5 rounds.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]M sets for 2 rounds.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]C sets for 2 rounds.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]M sets for 15 rounds. If you try on the hat now, it should come to no more than two inches from the top of your head. If it doesn’t, add a couple more rounds. [/FONT][/SIZE]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]M13 (you should have two sets or four stitches before the marker), Mdec; repeat to end of round.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]M around two times.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]M12, Mdec; repeat to end of round.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]M around once.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]M11, Mdec; repeat to end of round.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]M around once.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]M10, Mdec; repeat to end of round.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]M around once.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]M9, Mdec; repeat to end of round.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]M8, Mdec; repeat to end of round. [/FONT][/SIZE]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]M7, Mdec; repeat to end of round.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Repeat in this manner until 6 sets (12 stitches) remain. Switch to dpns as needed.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Finishing:[/SIZE][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][FONT=Times New Roman]Place contrasting color stitches on a stitch holder. Cut both yarns, leaving about 8 inches of tail. Thread the main color yarn through the main color stitches. Poke the tail to the inside of the hat, turn the hat inside out, and tie off. Now thread the contrasting color yarn through the contrasting color stitches and tie off. [/FONT][/SIZE]
[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]You may add a pom-pom if you desire.[/SIZE][/FONT]
thank you so much! that was a huge help, i thanked you by the way 
i made a dozen (ok, 1 1/2 dozen!) potholder this spring…
i have photo’s, and patterns and a you tube video for 1 cast on (yes, it has sound, but its a pretty simple cast on… (longtail and reversed long tail… (see it, and you’re halfway to being able to do it.
the blog entries about knitting with cotton(and i think a bathmat starts it off) start april 15th or so… and there are a half dozen or so entries (and some are tutorials…) the blog entries on cotton/double knitting continue till mid may. LOTS of INFO!
i made my potholder from cotton (i like cotton) but they can be done with wool (and use a size 8 or so needle!) the result will be loose and open fabric, but then full/half felt… they get thick and dense, become very good insulating pot holders!
Hat are another good project (but potholder don’t need shaping, and they don’t hang around your face… (things that hang around your face should be perfect… potholders? they hang around the kitchen, and no one notice mistakes… --and they work fine with mistakes!