So baffled by this… something is lost in the translation from Norwegian:
Start working short rows to shape the neck
(look it up on youtube if unfamiliar with it):
Row 1: K1, turn.
Row 2: Purl past all SwMs unto you are 1 st
past the forth your are passing, and slip all
SwM with yarn in front, turn.
Row 3: Knit past all SwM until you are 1 st past
where you turned last but increase by all SwM
like this: M1R before the SwM and M1L after
the SwM (8 sts increased)
Row 4 and 6: Purl until you are 1 st past where
you turned last, and slip all SwM with yarn in
front.
Row 5: Knit past all SwM until you are 1 st past
where you turned last.
Work row 3-6 until you have turned a total of
6 times in each side. Knit to the beginning of
the round = 96 (100) 100 (108) 112 (120) sts.
See if this helps:
Start working short rows to shape the neck
(look it up on youtube if unfamiliar with it):
Row 1: K1, turn.
Row 2: Purl past all Markers (slipping all
Markers with yarn in front) until you are 1 st
past the 4th Marker, turn.
Row 3: Knit past all Markers until you are 1 st past
where you turned last but increase by all Markers
like this: M1R before the Marker and M1L after
the Marker (8 sts increased)
Row 4 and 6: Purl until you are 1 st past where
you turned last, and slip all Markers with yarn in
front.
Row 5: Knit past all Markers until you are 1 st past
where you turned last.
Work row 3-6 until you have turned a total of
6 times in each side. Knit to the beginning of
the round = 96 (100) 100 (108) 112 (120) sts.
I would place markers just below the turn stitch (in the knitting itself) in order to keep track of where you turned last.
I also find that it helps to use different color makers for the 4 markers that are on the needle.
What is the name of your pattern?
Betty sweater by Pickles.
Very nice classic!
The short rows help to lift the back of the sweater to that it sits correctly when you wear it and doesn’t pull the neck to the back.