of troy’s method works well if you’re using two colors, you could use one color and 2 strands the same way. I’ve only ever used one and no design so did k1, slip 1.
I’ve done a little double knitting. Here’s a pic of a square/ potholder I had on my flickr. I really like how it looks, but it just took too long to do.
Yes, it’s a bit tedious to knit. That’s really nice though.
Now I’m confused. I watched Amy’s video on double knitting and she knit/purled every stitch on the row. I thought the k1 sl1 method (knitting each row twice)was called mosaic knitting or something. Are they both called double knitting? I think that’s what has me confused, I thought they were totally different animals.
Of course you are confused!
double knitting is a term like Broiche…
there are LOTS OF stitch patterns that use the Brioche technique.
(include one stitch pattern called the BRIOCHE stitch!)
there are several techniques that are called double knitting!
[B]1-[/B]-simple double knitting
this is a way to knit a tube (just like knitting in the round) on 2 straight needle.
its simple, K1, s1, --just remember to bring yarn forward (as if to purl) when you slip…
it can be done with an odd number of stitches (but its slightly more complex!) work a swatch using an even number of stitches…
every row is the same
[B]2[/B]–2 yarn double knitting.
this is a way to knit 2 tubes/one inside of the other…
this is the 'classic one sock inside another (from Anna Karenina)
[B]3[/B]–2 yarn (2 color) INTERLOCKING double knit. (aka Jacquard double knitting)
in this double knit process, the 2 sides of the knitting interlock… (see the pot holder? ever time there is a change of color (VERTICAL changes only) the 2 sides of the knitting interlock
IT IS NO LONGER A TUBE!
[B]4[/B]–There are other interesting techniques to use double knitting (including half double knitting, twinned knitting, etc)
simple double knitting is great for belts, ties, (men ties, or neckline bind off+ ties for sweater) also good for strapes (on bags, or on sun dresses/sun suits for kids)
Inter locking double knittig is a whole different animal!
it makes a 2 sided (both sides stocking knit. (or not!) single layer (the 2 sides are interlocked and can not be pulled apart --the more complex the design, the more they are interlocked…)
(the square target (love that design, have done it myself!) is interlocked in just a few places.)
some stitch pattern (color work patterns) will interlock very stitch, every row!)
most patterns interlock every 5 stitches or so, (and ever few rows)
Good explanation of Troy! Yep, my pictures show #3
The sides are open for 3 stitches but when the color switches the front yarn goes to the back, and the back yarn goes to the front.
So, any patterns you would like to see put in a book about double knitting?
Of Troy, and Jess_Hawk
I am AWED :notworthy:
Not only at your Skills at knitting, but at your communcation skills that TOTALLY dwarf mine
I would LOV any tps and tricks you could impart to me/us on this topic
ecb
Its a big topic - tips and tricks are easier if we know what your intended results are.
toot-toot–me blowing my own horn here…
i blogged (about 10 blog posts) about double knitting starting in April till about mid May (of this year), and posted:
general directions
a you tube cast on
some instructions for basic 2 color stitch patterns
some instructions for some potholders.
I knit my potholders in cotton… not the easiest fiber to work with…
but 100% pure wool works well too…
use a slight larger needle than you normal would, --say a size 9 for worsted (cascade 220 or Paton’s classic merino)
BE AWARE --at first, double knitting plays havoc with gauge (99% find they knit looser…)
after completing pot holder, full it (semi felt)
wool is a good insulator, and wool potholder function well
the loose messy stitches (a side effect of learning double knitting) are an asset if you full!
you can search the april may archives–
i think of potholders as over sized swatches… like washclothes, a good way to learn… (and in the 30 days from april to may, i made about 18 potholders… some copies of previous designs–but in new colorways, some with new designs. at some point, i’ll do more (as i haven’t experiemented with the new sugar N creme stripes…
I generally like solids better, but… some of my experiments with purl stitches and color ways were way nicer than i expected!
Also check out:
[B][U]The Big Book of Knitting[/U][/B], Katerina Buss, (sterling publishing) for great instructions and photos.
My guage is the same for double as single, so I didn’t know that most people knit looser. Thanks!
It could be looser in that you have half the stitches on one side, and half on the other. At least that’s what I noticed when I tried it out.
2 color, interlocking double knitting feels (in hand) like 1 X 1 ribbing,
you
*knit 1,(yarn a) both yarns forward (as to purl) purl 1 (with yarn b), yarn back (as to knit) repeat
MOST people work ribbing looser too… (which is why smaller needles are usually called for for ribbing!)
the K1, S1 style of double knitting (simple double knitting) is less likely to be loose.
all the patterns i feature on my blog are for 2 color interlocking double knitting. (and the potholder (square target) on page 3 of this thread looks a bit loose–not bad, but rather, normal for 2 color interlocking double knitting!)
but as i say for cotton potholder, give them a good wash in hot water, for wool, a good wash in a machine… the fabric will tighten up,& the potholder will be thicker (and this is a good thing in a pot holder!)
(after much practice, i can knit loose (if i want to full/shrink) or not… but when i was first learning, getting the same gauge with double knitting as with normal knitting required smaller (about 2 sizes smaller) needles… just a ribbing works better on smaller neeldes (for most!)
LOL I knit EVERYTHING tight. If I really concentrate and relax my hands, I can loosen up, but as soon as I get distracted, or if I’m stressed or nervous, it tightens up again. So typically, I just deal with knitting tight to avoid changeable guage.