Converting patterns from using straights to dpns

:thinking: Does anyone know if it’s possible to convert certain patterns, i.e. knitting hats, from using straight needles to dpns or circulars? I really prefer to knit using dpns or circulars and not have to worry about seaming! That is NOT my favorite part of knitting! I am still working on having my seams look good enough to my satisfaction, especially when giving my finished pieces as gifts, left alone ones for myself! I am very particular about my work.

If anyone know if this is possible or has a suggestion about an article or a book that tells you how, PLEASE let me know!

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. Today is Christmas Eve day and I still have a pair of Ugg booties to seam up so I can give them as a gift to my seven-month-old nephew (the cutest baby in the world, seriously!) tomorrow.

SusanC :??

I don’t think converting straight patterns to circular is complicated enough to require a book. If the pattern includes extra stitches at the ends of the piece for seaming, you just eliminate them in your stitch count for circular.

I think the only thing I’ve read about that should probably not be knit in the round is lacy sweaters–the side seams supposedly keep it from twisting up on you. Other than that, you can pretty much do anything in the round.

Have you tried mattress stitch for seaming? That and three needle bind off for shoulder seams makes all the difference.

:thumbsup: Hi Ingrid: Thanks for the advice. I do have one question regarding it, though, since I’ve only been knitting for two years. How do I know if there are extra stitches allowing for seaming in a straight needle pattern? How do I allow for these stitches when using dpns or circulars? I know these are probably dumb questions, but I’m basically a newbie, but I’m not afraid to try new things!

Merry Christmas!

Susan C.

Sometimes a pattern gives you selvedge stitches to add to the stitch count. I generally assume that if you’re making a sweater, for example, the row of stitches on the edge of the piece–even if they’re treated as part of the pattern–are for seaming, so the finished circumference of the piece doesn’t include them. So for a sweater, I’d take four stitches away from the total count–unless they’re needed for the continuity of the design. I don’t make sweaters that are so fitted that four stitches makes much of a difference, though, so if they’re left in, it really doesn’t matter.

For a hat, though, I’d take out two stitches if I wanted to convert a straight pattern to flat.

This is an excellent reference for knitting any basic hat in the round, and this site has so many free patterns that conversion is probably only a last resort.

:cheering: Thanks again, Ingrid! You’ve been a great help. I’ve checked out the links you advised, and they do really help me. The video on mattress seaming is wonderful. I’m going to get off-line now and finish up my Ugg booties. I also have to make chocolate-covered pretzels for tomorrow for small gifts for my family. They are so gooood!

Thanks again and I look forward to chatting with you in the coming years! You have great advice! How long have you been knitting! I aspire to be a great knitter and a just as good seamer and finisher! That’s my hope, any way!

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Susan C. :happydance:

Another clue for how many stitches to “remove” is if the hat is ribbed. Work out the ribbing to a number that equals the number of repeats. For example, a k2, p2 ribbing would need a multiple of 4 stitches cast on. Clear as mud?