Cardigan Back decreasing Stitches help please

#1

Hi Everyone,
I’m a new knitter and have so far, made 2 knitted stars and have felted them. Now I’m attempting a cardigan. It’s a British pattern by Rowan.
You can see the photo here: https://knitrowan.com/products/zb328-percy

I’ve started shaping the back at the armholes, but I can’t work out what the following means and how many rows it should take to decrease from 70 stitches, down to 58?

Shape armholes
Cast off 3 [4: 4: 5: 5: 6: 6: 7: 8] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 64 [70: 78: 86: 94:
100: 108: 116: 124] sts. (I have done this)

I don’t know what this next part means?
Dec 1 st at each end of next 3 [3: 3: 5: 5: 5: 5: 5: 5] rows, then on foll 1 [2: 4:
4: 4: 5: 7: 10: 12] alt rows and then on 1 [1: 1: 1: 2: 2: 2: 2: 2] foll 4th rows. 54
[58: 62: 66: 72: 76: 80: 82: 86] sts. How many rows does this take?

How do I measure the armhole? Is it from the underarm to the top of the shoulder?
Cont straight until armhole meas 18 [19: 20.5: 22: 23.5: 25: 26: 27: 28] cm,
ending with RS facing for next row.

Thank you so much for your advice.

#2

Welcome to the forum!
Call the next row, row 1. Then decrease at each end of rows 1,2 and 3. Decrease at each end of rows 5 and 7 and finally row 11. This will take 11 rows and since there are 2 decreases per decrease row that’s 12 sts decreased taking you from 70 to 58sts.

Measure the armhole straight up from the underarm bind off of 4sts to the sts on the needle.

Love the unusual detail on the sleeves. Thanks for the link.

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#3

Thank you so much for your speedy and so helpful reply and welcome too. Thank you.
I’m knitting using Alpaca in dark turquoise. Loving it so far. Haven’t decided what colour to use as contrast at the cuffs. I might go for navy or maybe white. Thanks again x.

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#4

Thanks for this. I knitted a jumper ( dress) and knitted the armhole measuring around the curve. But when I blocked it I used the schematic on the pattern. It’s still on the blocking mat and I just checked and thank goodness is 6 inches. But now I know. Just need to sew seams and knit band around armhole and neck. Then done. Catastrophe averted.

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#5

Excellent! We’d love to see a photo when you finish.

#6

Cardi Back
I think I’ve managed the cardi back ok - sorry the photo is a bit dark.

Now I need your help please with the left front armhole shaping. It’s so confusing.

Shape front slope
Dec 1 st at end of next and 4 [3: 1: 1: 12: 13: 11: 10: 9] foll alt [alt: alt: alt:
4th: 4th: 4th: 4th: 4th] rows, then on 7 [8: 10: 11: 0: 0: 2: 3: 4] foll 4th [4th:
4th: 4th: -: -: 6th: 6th: 6th] rows and at same time dec 1 st at armhole
edge of next 3 [3: 3: 5: 5: 5: 5: 5: 5] rows, then on foll 1 [2: 4: 4: 4: 5: 7: 10:
12] alt rows and then on 1 [1: 1: 1: 2: 2: 2: 2: 2] foll 4th rows. 13 [15: 17: 18:
21: 22: 24: 25: 27] sts.
Cont straight until left front matches back to beg of shoulder shaping.

I started writing it out… but I soon get confused.

Row 1 Dec st at end of row.

Row 2 knit row

Row 3 Dec 1 st at end of row

Row 4 knit row dec 1st

Row 5 Dec 1 st at end of row

Thanks so much for your help, in advance.

#7

The back looks perfect, nice and even stitches. I can hardly believe you’re a new knitter.
You’ve made a good start on these decreases. Sometimes it helps to circle or highlight the numbers you’re following and sometimes rewriting the pattern is the best idea.
If you call the next row, row 1 then decrease one stitch on rows 1,3,5 and 7 then dec on rows 11,15,19,23,27,31,35 and 39.
At the armhole edge dec one stitch on rows 1,2,3 and then row 5 and 7. Finally dec on row 11.
I often make a list and check off the dec rows as I complete them.

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#8

Thank you so much for your kind words and advice.

I did start writing the rows out but easily get lost and confused.

I have lighted the numbers I need for my size. Thanks again and I’ll show you as I progress. Trying not to be too antisocial and still feed the family :smiley:

Have a great weekend. x

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#9

Hello
You’re knitting looks great. Very even.
When there is a section of shaping where there are some at neck edge, some at arm edge and some on both, I occasionally draw a small table out on paper. In this case 3 columns with the row number listed in column 1, dec at beginning of row in column 2 and dec at end of row in column 3. I just tick in columns 2 and 3. It’s often only a smallish section which needs jotting down.
I also write out the row numbers the way salmonmac has, I don’t usually cross them off but instead I use a row counter so I know which I’ve done and which remain based on which row my counter is on.
Getting different ideas from others about how to keep track will probably help you to find a way you like to work.

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#10

Thank you very much. Great idea.
I’ll have a go.
I do write the rows down but find it easy to get confused.
X

#11

Wow, first impressed only knitting a few weeks and it looks really good and second that you’ve already knitted up the back. It takes me forever, it seems, to make such progress. Then I feel guilty because there is so much else I should be doing (but I don’t). Oh well. It’s what makes me happy, the other stuff are those never ending chores we all have and they unfortunately aren’t going anywhere and will be waiting for me when I get to it.

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#12

Many thanks for the compliments. I’m really enjoying knitting. Very relaxing, but I’m definitely avoiding doing some jobs that I should be doing :grimacing:
I’ve also lined up a few projects including “presents” to knit for some friends for Christmas, so I need to get on with the Cardi :grinning:
Thanks again.

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#13

It’s me again. Back, Front and right fronts are complete. Now starting the sleeves with the “bobbles”.

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I’ve attached a photo of the sleeves and the pattern repeat. I’m making the 2nd size, and here are the instructions and notes:

Pattern note:
A rosebud leaf is formed by working a “long bobble” into the space between the indicated 2 sts 4 rows below (as indicated by an arrow on chart), resulting in an extra st, which is decreased on the foll row. These temporary extra sts are not included in the st count.
When working patt from chart, take care to look ahead and ensure all parts of the rosebud leaf can be worked (the bobble and the decrease) and if not, work edge sts as st st.
SPECIAL ABBREVIATIONS
LRB = with RS facing and yarn at back (WS),insert right needle under the horizontal thread which links the twisted (tbl) st with the st following it, 4 rows below, wrap yarn round needle and pull long loop through, yfwd, rep from * to * once more,turn,P3,turn,sl 1,K2tog,psso;RRB = with RS facing and yarn at back (WS),insert right needle under the horizontal thread which links the twisted (tbl) st with the st preceding it, 4 rows below, wrap yarn round needle and pull long loop through, yfwd, rep from * to * once more, turn, P3, turn, K3tog; MB = make bobble as folls: K into front, back, front and back of next st, turn, P4, turn, K4, turn, P4, turn, K4tog.

SLEEVES
Using 41⁄2mm (US 7) needles and yarn DOUBLE cast on 43 [45: 45: 47: 47: 49: 49: 51: 51] sts.
Beg and ending rows as indicated, repeating the 8 st patt repeat 5 times across each row, now work 19 rows in patt from chart (see pattern note), ending with WS facing for next row.
Beg with a P row, now work in st st throughout as folls:
Is this correct:

My size will cast on 45 stitches,
Row 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6,
Row 1, Knit 6 st, then knit tbl (no idea how) knit 7 st, knit tbl, knit 7 st, knit tbl, knit 7 st, knit tbl, knit 7 st, knit tbl, knit 7 st knit tbl, knit 4 st.
Row 2, purl 4 st, purl tbl, purl 7 st, purl tbl, purl tbl, purl 7 st, purl tbl, purl 7 st, purl tbl, purl 7 st, purl tbl, purl 7 st, purl tbl, purl 6 st
Repeat row 1& 2 twice?
Then row 7, knit 2 st, knit tbl, knit 3 st, MB - make bobble - I have no clue :flushed:.

I think, surely, I can add the contrast colour long stitches once the cardigan is finished?

So sorry that I’ve chosen a really hard pattern as a first garment.
Thank you for your invaluable help x

#14

It’s actually a quite original detail in an otherwise straightforward sweater and a good choice.
However, I agree about adding the contrast color after the sleeves are finished. That seems like a very reasonable choice.
If the stiches in contrast color were knit in the main color instead, then it would be easier to continue to work the elongated sts as you are knitting. Here’s a video that shows the method.

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#15

Many thanks for your reply and helpful link to the video. It’s so much easier to see when someone can show you.
Thank you :smiley:

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#16

I think this is a great first garment. It is plain enough to be able to focus on the knitting tension and arm and neck shaping, and then the lovely bit of detail to give you a challenge and show this piece off as a one off that you made yourself.

Just keep asking questions until you know what your doing.
If you have spare yarn maybe do a trial swatch to practise the bobble first. I still do trial swatch with new stitches.

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#17

Many thanks for your encouragement.
I have tried many different bobble techniques and now I’ve decided to stick with what’s on the pattern :smiley:
My yarn is brushed alpaca, perhaps not the easiest to see when adding to a stitch, creating more stiches, but I’m getting there.
Thanks again.

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#18

Sleeve bobbles
Sleeve bobbles1475×1197 455 KB

I’m getting on with the first sleeve. I tried many many different methods of bobble creations and settled for the pattern’s own in the end.

Many thanks to you all for your help and encouragement x

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#19

Looks good! It’s always fun to see if you can find a better, different, maybe easier way to work a pattern. You bobbles look perfect.

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#20

Many thanks for the compliment.

I have another question now. I’m shaping the shoulder on the first sleeve. Although the pattern doesn’t state, “knit the other sleeve with the reverse shaping…” Surely I should knit the 2nd sleeve with the reversing the rows on **Shape Sides & **“Shape top” - where I have put in “Bold” below?

Here are the instructions for the “sleeves”
SLEEVES
Using 4½mm (US 7) needles and yarn DOUBLE cast on 43 [45: 45: 47: 47: 49: 49: 51: 51] sts.
Beg and ending rows as indicated, repeating the 8 st patt repeat 5 times across each row, now work 19 rows in patt from chart (see pattern note), ending with WS facing for next row.
Beg with a P row, now work in st st throughout as folls: Work 1 row, dec [dec: inc: inc: inc: inc: inc: inc: inc] 1 st at end of this row. 42 [44: 46: 48: 48: 50: 50: 52: 52] sts.
Shape sides by inc 1 st at each end of 11th [11th: 11th: 11th: 9th: 7th: 7th: 7th: 5th] and every foll 10th [10th: 10th: 10th: 8th: 6th: 6th: 6th: 4th] row to 48 [48: 50: 62: 66: 56: 64: 74: 60] sts, then on every foll 12th [12th: 12th: 12th: 10th: 8th: 8th: 8th: 6th] row until there are 56 [58: 60: 64: 68: 72: 74:
78: 82] sts.
Cont straight until sleeve meas 44 [45: 45: 46: 46: 46: 46: 46: 46] cm, ending
with RS facing for next row.
Shape top
Cast off 3 [4: 4: 5: 5: 6: 6: 7: 8] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 50 [50: 52: 54: 58:
60: 62: 64: 66] sts.
Dec 1 st at each end of next 5 [5: 5: 5: 7: 7: 7: 7: 7] rows, then on every foll alt row to 32 [32: 34: 36: 36: 36: 38: 38: 40] sts and then
on every foll 4th row until 30 [28: 30: 30: 30: 30: 32: 32: 34] sts rem.
Work 1 row.
Dec 1 st at each end of next and every foll alt row until 20 sts rem, then on
foll 3 rows.
Cast off rem 14 sts.

Many thanks again for your help. I really appreciate it. :smiley: