Hi there, should I be incorporating a back slit up past the hip on a 3/4 coat I’m making or is that only for woven fabrics with no stretch? I feel like that detail would only help the functionality of the coat but hopeful someone can confirm from experience
Are you using a pattern? It should tell you if you need one.
nope! I’m custom making this one…so I;m doing everything.
and if I do need to knit a back slit up to the hip, what is the proper way to do this? Would I have to have a seam up the entire back? I would prefer not to do that… maybe I can do another way?
I should note as well, I’m using size 11 needles and super bulky yarn with a very tailored fit. I have a peacoat I wear all the time that I;m essentially trying to replicate. If it was a looser gauge and drapy then I’d maybe so no to a back slit but since the fabric will be relatively tight I feel I’m on the cusp of having a slit (I’m assuming that’s what it’s called).
Well, I haven’t made anything like that, but I can see how a back slit might help keep it from stretching so much over your backside. I think it might be called a vent, but I’m not sure.
As for how to make it I would think splitting in the center where a slit would be then do both sides separately. I’m thinking it would be a good idea to reinforce the edge and top of the slit. maybe sew a ribbon on the inside edge and top. Otherwise it could end up wonky and not even from use. Or maybe just seed stitch although I’m not sure if that would be reinforced enough. You might do a few swatches with a slit both reinforced and not to test how much it stretches.
Also… I’ve seen splits with kind of a fold…not really a fold, but where one side slides under the other. That could be done by casting on 5 stitches or so and then that side will be the “bottom” of the slit and it could be tacked down. Hmm… I’ll see what I can find.
ya I was thinking the overlapping fold. But being a tighter gauge, I feel there would be enough rigidity as is?
Can’t find anything on Google for knitting the back slit, or at least ways it can be done. I’d like to go seamless of course…if I can’t do this I’d want to minimize the bulk of the seam anyway possible. Not super experienced so if anybody has a trick to achieve this, be my guest and chime in!
When you reach that point you split and knit each side separately. You can put the stitches you aren’t knitting on waste yarn to hold them.
ya even if I went to the hip which my peacoat is, my peacoat has a 7-7.5inch (sewed on a slant) slit up the back. I think it is inevitable that I’ll need one with a tighter gauge, plus I’m hoping to go past the hip, ‘plus plus’ I want the functionality the slit would provide for everyday use.
I’m unsure the best way to do the back in two pieces without any bulk along seam? My assumption is that i’d sew it just like the side seams but thats just me guessing… you mentioned seed stitches, overlap, etc. My peacoast is overlap but that would create a bulky overlap that I’m trying to avoid on my knitted coat…
*my peacoat isn’t knitted so hence why overlap would be pertinent in that instance of course
I thought you weren’t doing a seam?
id prefer to not have to do a seam. I don;t want a bulky seam down the back when im going for a tailored fit.
Just stopped by my knitting store and she suggested I knit both back flaps individually and join up at desired length. I’ll use a finer yarn on the underlap piece toward the joint so that the ‘bulky on bulky’ appearance isn;t so prevelant.
I’m going to give it a go here!
That’s basically what I said. I assumed it was top down and gave the info for that, but if you’re doing bottom up it’s similar in that you do each one separately.
You could also consider doing something other than a slit if you aren’t trying to precisely replicate the jacket. Something that would give you some give/space like a slit without creating a big gap in the back.
It could be something like the pleat in the back of this jacket. Could be made the same length/size as the slit you’re planning. A peplum would also work, but if your gauge is tight and the fabric stiff, it might not hang attractively.
If you really want the slit, to finish it off nicely, you might look at the construction of the neckline of a shawl collar sweater. You could essentially work it upside down and get a nice finish and overlap without too much bulk.
What about a vent with an under lap. See the image of a back vent on a men’s jacket You need to knit the underlying pieces or extension as one piece. Then you knit the top part of the vent, either as a single piece or folded back and under.
However, I would be careful of how high up your vent goes. I would not want it to be at the level where your hips are the widest.
This approach takes plan, as I found out, when I attempted to incorporate a similar device on a sleeve.
yes this is what I’m thinking of doing… my peacoat (pics attached) has some overlap. This is okay since it’s a relatively thin fabric but I’m going ‘super bulky’ on top of ‘super bulky’ and it will look a little funny i’d imagine (already done both flaps in two pieces - attached). My tailbone is the start of the split (3 inches above the hip as I;m following my peacoat’s fit). What about a true 50/50 slit with no overlap? You’ll see on my peacoat that the slit is angled and shaped as to have full coverage but also offer that flexibility and function… with super bulky yarn I’m wondering if there is a recommnded alternative to avoiding overlap?
I just had a revelation from research that I should potentially look at learning top down if I want a more fitted look so I might tear out and do top down (just order some books on amazon for this)… any thoughts on this?
thanks lewister and 499lake (found my new resource for help rather than bouncing off the walls haha!)
Is it possible to have both sides of the split just meet in the middle?
sort of like this but without the bottom bit and closer together.
ya that’s what I was thinking…a true 50/50 split. I’m copying my peacoat which the split starts 3" up from tailbone (*correction, meant to say hip) I;m assuming that would be okay for a knitted garment. Can’t imagine the hip or lower would offer any benefit…
It’s more about your figure, if you’re bottom heavy like me anything other than a simple split will draw attention to that area.
im a tall lean guy… 6"3 with a lean frame…model-esque figure if you will. I like european fitted clothes such as Zara…