Did you make note of how many ribbing rows you worked to reach your 3.5"? If not, do so. This will help you perfectly duplicate your ribbing to match the FRONTS.
[COLOR=Blue][B]I would simply measure the entire length, ribbing and allā¦to reach your prescribed 14.5".[/B][/COLOR] It will be good however, to make notes about how many repeats and rows you knit for the body (beyond the ribbing) to reach your 14.5" goalā¦so that you can perfectly duplicate that length for the FRONTS.
The sweaters are looking good. I love the color of both of them.
Someday, when I am ready for cables, I may tackle this one. It will be a wonderful sweater.
Here is a photo of the RIGHT & LEFT FRONTS, completed, but un-blocked. The BACK, RIGHT & LEFT FRONTS will be heading off to the blocking board today. I will remove all my little red row markers first, of course. And the gold armhole cast off row marker.
For the bindoffs along the neckline, I used the āslip the 1st stitchā (rather than knit) in the bind off process to created a smoother line on the neckline.
That looks very nice. Why would you need to block it? I donāt block things, primarily because theyāre acrylic or cotton, and donāt find I need to. Theyāre the size I want because I use my own gauge instead of trying to match a pattern (which I only use as a basis anyway), though the sts even out a lot with washing. But your piece look really good to me.
Here are photos of my SLEEVES notebook.
Two facing pages: one has the general instructions,
the other shows my āincreasesā plan/diagram
This inc rows diagrams sets forth EXACTLY on which rows I will be doing an increase at each end. Instructions: āinc 1 ea end every 8th row, 10 xāsā for my size. I incorporate those increases into the Repeats&Rows because I donāt keep track of just rowsā¦but the repeats as well. It is good to place a stitch marker at each end of the rows after you have 1 increase row done. The marker will alert you if you have missed an increase. [I]The most common sleeve increase to miss is the last one on the row. [/I]The markers should always have the [U]same number of stitches [/U]on the outside of them. If they donāt, you can bet you missed increasing at the end of an inc row! Just always check, check, check. The number of increases on each side of the marker should also coincide with the number of circles on your diagram that you have put a mark / through! I mark the green circles off with a / when the increase row is complete.
This photo demonstrates why it is important to set up your K2P2 ribbing correctly. After the cuff has reached 5", you will be instructed to begin the CHART B cable, placed in the middle of the row. CHART B must begin and end with P2. This works IF your ribbing was set up correctly, as K2-P2 and ending with K2 at the other end.
In this photo, I placed my stitch markers early on, to be certain that my ribbing was going to āsyncā with the CHART B cable placement when the ribbing was 5" and ending.
This is a photo of a few rows of the cuffs. Begin your cuffs with K2 (not P2)ā¦and that is the RIGHT SIDE. The row also ends with a K2. I personally prefer to work the 1st and last stitch of every row as an āedge stitchā. It promotes easier seaming later on.
Blocking serves more purposes than sizing. Please believe me when I sayā¦blocking [U]improves the appearance[/U] of the garment tremendously, regardless of fiber. The [U]overall finished surface[/U] improves greatly! I rarely block to change sizing, or to make pieces match in size. My method of knitting rules out mis-sized pieces in the first place. With this particular CPH, another perk of blocking is that the fibers will bloom and become softer to the touch. Donegal tweeds are kinda scratchy, until after blocking! They significantly improve after hand washing in UNICORN FIBER WASH & RINSE prior to seaming. I pin out the pieces on the blocking board, using blocking wires for the straightaways, and leave the entire mess til bone dry. (Iāve seen too many CPHās on Ravelry that are horrid in appearance, not due to mistakes in the knitting or yarn choiceā¦but because the garment was not āfinishedā with blocking. Hey, but whoās asking me? Theyāre happy. Iām happy.)
This baby set, made for a girlfriendās 1st DGD, was [U]knit with acrylic yarn[/U]. Blocking improved its appearance a lot! I blocked the hat on something round that was head-size, and misted it down.
This is a photo of a sweater set I made my DGSās for Easter a few years ago. [U]
The yarn: Cotton Patine[/U], by Elsebeth Lavold. Blocking perfected the finished surfaces tremendously. Single ply yarns are lovely, but they can knit up weird and unruly. Blocking tames that! Every stitch gets into line during the blocking process.
Here is a photo of a sweater set I made my DGDās. [U]The yarn[/U]: Rowan [U]All Seasons Cotton[/U]. The sweaters were perfectly sized, but the blocking totally improved the stitches! The blocking was used to āpolish upā the appearance of the garment! Whenever possible, blocking occurs before seaming.
Here is a photo of a Viking Knits sweater that I blocked, of course. It was knit with Lousia Harding āGraceā. ([U]70%merino/30%silk blend[/U]) The sweater was the right sizeā¦but the st st was all wonky. I just hate that. Single ply yarns are notorious for knitting āwonkyā in st st. But blocking saved the day! I couldnāt believe it solved the entire issue! The surface of the st st is now perfect. Smooth and finely shaped stitches throughout!
The photos below show a baby set I knit last year. [U]The yarn is cotton[/U]: Elannās Lara. St st and cotton, aaargh! :doh: So many stitches are wonky. The [I]surface[/I] of the st st is not even and smoothā¦UNTIL AFTER BLOCKING! I was so happy with the surface appearance after I blocked the pieces! (I block [U]before[/U] seaming) Then, with this baby set, I laid damp handtowels on top again and left til dry. Voila! Like magic! The st st looks like a machine knit! I was pretty bummed out before that.
Can ya tell that BLOCKING is a pet peeve of mine? :teehee:
Hope youāre not sorry you asked! :teehee:
Perhaps this post about blocking helps someone. I have photos of my DDās CPH on the blocking board, which I will post later in this project. The photos show how the blocking wires are threaded through the edge stitches; and several other blocking tips for the CPH.
I wash and dry the washables and yes, it does even out stitches quite a lot, which I think you could get from handwashing the wools and delicates, though youād lay flat to dry of course. It just looked to me like the CPH pieces were quite nice already.
Thanks so much for the reply and yes it will help others.
My FRONTS and BACK are washed, rinsed, patted dry, and on the blocking board and will remain there til bone dry. My sweater is already improving in appearance and āfeelā. The stitches are blooming nicely! And the yarn already feels softer, even while wet!
Here is a good example of how handy dandy edge stitches are! See how easily you can push/thread the blocking wire through the edge stitches?
Here is a photo of the blocking wire, threaded through all the edge stitches, as seen from the wrong side up.
Blocking wires are holding the straightaways in place, with minimal pinning.
Iām finishing my back right now and the pattern for my size says:
āBO 8 sts at beg of next 6 rows. Then BO 0 stitches at beginning of following 2 rows.ā
Since the second sentence says BO 0 stitches does that mean I just knit 2 rows without any BO, OR does it mean that I donāt knit those last 2 rows at all?
Iām looking at your notebook for your ābackā and your notes donāt include knitting 2 more rows without binding off so Iām assuming that I wonāt need to knit 2 more rows and those directions are only there for the bigger sizesā¦
I guess Iām just posting this for reassurance since I think Iām going to go ahead BO the next 6 rows and then place my remaining stitches on scrap yarnā¦ maybe i should leave an extra long tail before snipping the yarn just in caseā¦ :oo: (lol the face i just put here is hilarious!)
I assume you are working on the armholes now. Without knowing what size you are making, just read the directions very literally.
When they say āBO 7 on the NEXT two rows, then BO 2 on the NEXT 2 rowsāā¦it means just exactly that.
Donāt let my notebook throw you off. It serves as an example of how I write up my pattern.
After my 4 rows of BINDOFFS on the armhole (worked on [COLOR=Green][COLOR=Black]Repeat 7, Rows 5,6,7,8ā¦written as[/COLOR][/COLOR][B][COLOR=Green] 7/5, 7/6, 7/7, 7/8[/COLOR][/B])ā¦then the directions for my size say that the NEXT row will be a DEC ROW. (worked on Repeat 7 Row 9, if you can see my itsy bitsy GREEN ink writings).
Then, Repeat 7 Row 10 (written as [COLOR=Green][B]7/10[/B] [/COLOR]in the notebook) says EVEN. That means no decreasing on the row.
Then, the very next row (Repeat 8, Row 1ā¦written as [B][COLOR=Green]8/1[/COLOR][/B]) is another DEC ROW.
Then, my notes say that I am to WORK EVEN (no further decreasing) until the armhole measures 8.5". I reached that measurement by the end of Repeat 12, Row 4 (written in my notes as[COLOR=DarkGreen][B] 12/4[/B][/COLOR]) I ended at the end of a WS rowā¦so that the shoulder shaping will commence with RS facing. (this means that I worked 8/2 thru 12/4 without any dec)
I hope this helps! I canāt remember if you told me what size you are knitting. :??
I was referring to the shoulder section of the back panel. Iām making a size 48" - the largest size of the original pattern. The new pattern has 3 more sizes added on after my size.
I downloaded the new pattern from the Interweave website that has the three additional sizes past the original sizes, and the pattern for the shoulder section for the back for size 48 says:
āBO 8 sts at beg of next 6 rows. Then BO 0 stitches at beginning of following 2 rows.ā
I was confused if I should go ahead and knit 2 more rows without doing any bind offs since it says to bind off zero stitches, or if I should just not knit the additional 2 rows since I didnāt have to bind off.
I looked at your notebook for your āshoulderā section of the back and you have written "Bind off 7 at the beginning of next 6 rows."
No mention of knitting 2 more rows, so Iām assumed that I didnāt need to knit 2 more rows and those directions are only there for the bigger sizes.
I suspect that in the original pattern (the one without the 3 larger sizes) when you look at the directions for the shoulders in the ābackā section it says for size 48 to BO 8 sts at beg of next 6 rows and put remaining 38 sts on a holder.
Yes, you are absolutely right. Your instincts were right! After we bind off 7 at the beginning of the next 6 rowsā¦WE are DONE! We put our final 38 st on a holder. (NOTE: the larger sizes have more binding off to do to reach the 38 st for the hood.)
For what itās worth: whenever a pattern is for multiple sizesā¦and most of them areā¦whenever the directions [COLOR=Red][U]for your size[/U][/COLOR] say something like BO [COLOR=Red]0 COLOR=Black on the next rowā¦if your size is one of the first 4 sizesā¦you just act as if the direction isnāt there at all (because it isnāt) and move on to the next direction that does apply to your size. I always use a yellow highlighter for all the numbers before starting my notebook. It helps me spot my numbers for the re-write.
That is why I re-write the pattern in my notebook!
[U]I only write what literally applies to my size.
[/U]PS: Whereas I downloaded the PDF for the larger sizesā¦but I am using the actual Knitscene magazine for my pattern. When I made my DDās CPHā¦the pattern was only available in the magazine. So I ordered the magazine from their website. So, my magazine (CPH pattern) doesnāt contain all the mysterious [B]0[/B]'s for the PLUS SIZES. That is why your question kinda confused me. But later, I opened up my PDF patternā¦and saw the extra pattern[B] 0[/B]'s!
I think that section threw me off because in other areas of the pattern it separates out specifically for the larger sizes by saying āFor the last 3 sizes only knitā¦ā etc.
Anyhow, thanks for taking the time to read and help me with my confusion! Iām now onto the ribbing of the left front panel. Hopefully with less than half the amount of stitches cast on than the back, this part will go pretty quickly.
Iāve secretly admired your FOs since I joined the forum but now Iām so glad I found this KAL because I have the CPH pattern and will begin knitting it (for my DD) as soon as I purchase the yarn.
Artlady, I wish, wish, wish I lived near you because I would pay you to give me a class in knitting a sweater. Iāve done a few sweaters but have not been happy with themāeven though Iāve taken care to knit a swatch before each.
I loved seeing your notes and am going to now adopt your practice. Iāve also loved reading about your blocking techniques. Iāve not blocked before and am now going to be a blocking convert (what kind of blocking board do you have and where did you purchase it?).
My daughter lives in Chicago so sheās not here for me to measure her favorite sweater. What do I tell her to measure? Is it the across the backāfrom seam to seam?
I so appreciate your kind words and compliments! Thank you very much!
[COLOR=Blue] To answer your question about the blocking board and accessories:[/COLOR] Knitpicks.com carries the blocking board that I use. Itās called the SPACE BOARD. I canāt remember which website I purchased mine from. But I think I paid $10 less than Knitpicks, but that was over a year ago. The blocking wires that I use are called LACE BLOCKING WIRESand I paid the same as Knitpicks is charging.
However, that said, if the investment into a premium blocking board doesnāt fit in the ole budget right nowā¦I will tell you that I used to use one of those foldup/accordian type cutting boards (for fabrics) and placed a sheet of clear vinyl material over it. It works nicely, as long as you can place it on a solid surface like a big kitchen table or the floor.
The blocking wires are a treat! They are absolutely necessary for blocking lace and/or scarvesā¦but they also really speed up the set-up for blocking sweaters! Much less time pinning a zillion pins into the straightaways. But Iāve only had blocking wires at my beck and call for the past year or so. So for umpteen zillion yearsā¦I just did the longhand way! It worked!
So donāt feel you have to invest $110 in the premium blocking board and blocking wires. They were a treat that I gave to myself! (That, and a wooden swift and Royal ball winder!) Who else would??
I look forward to helping you with your CPH! I will be available to help you with any questions you have about your yarn choice! Do try to get a yarn that is the correct gauge to start with.
In my opinion, the CPH is one of the easiest cable projects for ānew-to-cablesā knitters. The cables are simple, and the charts are easy to read, too.
Are you a Raveler yet? If so, mosey on over to my NOTEBOOK page and take a peek at my CPH notes for this blue oneā¦and the green one that I finished a bit ago for my DD.
[COLOR=Blue] To answer your question about size and measuring your DD:[/COLOR]
Ask her to measure around the fullest part of her chest [U]and[/U] her sleeve length (from the top of the shoulder to her wrist bone) Also consider what her overall shape is. Is her waist smaller than her bust and hips? The same? Larger?
Iāve read a lot of notes and chatter about the CPH on other KALās and everyone seems to agreeā¦they wish they had made the size larger than they chose. I made the 40" for my DDā¦and it fits her perfectly. Afterall, [U]it is[/U] a jacket! Jackets are supposed to allow room for a shirt! Sheās a size 6 in dresses and blouses.
The sleeves are supposed to be longish, coming down to the middle
of the hand. The āwaifā look, I call it! Very popular amongst the young!
Nothinā worse than high-water sleeves!
Stay in touch! I check our KAL numerous times throughout
the day M-Fā¦and on Sat/Sunā¦I check in at least once.
Itās heat resistant if you want to steam your FO right on it (w/out touching your FO of course) and the bottom is covered in this material that feels like felt so it doesnāt damage table tops in your house. I have the large size and it folds up in half and has carrying handles.
Like Artlady said it was definitely a treat to myself. Before the board I blocked on my ironing board and/or lots of towels.
Iām happy to see you come on board!
Update on my progress: Currently Iām halfway through my āleft front panelā and moving along at a snails pace. I have to work 13 days in a row and I just got through day 4 today. Tomorrow (Fri) I work 13 hours and then go right back to work on Saturday morning. Bleck. Hopefully once work slows down a bit I can devote more time to knitting.
Thanks so much Artlady and Susan for your replies!
I am definitely going to treat myself to a blocking board and wires.
My daughter is the same size as yourās Artlady so Iām going to make the Size 40 also. I know my daughter and sheāll want to wear her CPH as a jacket.
Iām going to order the yarn todayāthe same as yourās only in green.
And yes, Iām on Ravelry (same name) so I will check your CPH notes. I already have you as a Friend.
I was so happy with the surface appearance after I blocked the pieces! (I block [U]before[/U] seaming) Then, with this baby set, I laid damp handtowels on top again and left til dry. Voila! Like magic! The st st looks like a machine knit! I was pretty bummed out before that.
