Does anyone have experience with anneintarsia (intarsia in the round)?
I am knitting argyle socks. I don’t find intarsia hard, and would rather knit them flat than seam, but someone who knit socks both ways said the seamed (traditional) version was horribly uncomfortable in shoes and suggested I do the anneintarsia version (Albus pattern on Ravelry). I tried (and watched numerous youtube videos) but I find it impossible. I use DPNs and as a visual learner I’m having a hard time following the videos with magic loop or 2 needles especially when the pattern doesn’t resemble my own. Sadly, I can’t make it past the 3 setup rows before making a mistake with the movement of the start of the round on every row (haven’t even gotten to the chart yet. The chart would be easy to follow but I’m not sure if I’m supposed to continue moving the start of the round after the setup because the written instructions stop after the setup)
Thank you so much - yes, I’ve seen it. I understand in theory (making loops) - the first loop works every time but I get stuck making the next one. In set up row 3 it says to take MC from the right to make a loop but the MC to the right is 2 needles away… This is why the videos don’t help… firstly they’re all using only one CC, and second because I’m not sure if I’m reading wrong and if the designer intended the yarn to cross half the sock.
Also, the pattern says the BOR is supposed to keep shifting (based on the 2nd set up row I assume by slipping the first st on all WS rows) but it doesn’t show that on the chart - I don’t know if that means the first st on the chart is after the slip (ie technically st #2) …
I didn’t see a topic on this method and wondered if anyone had experience with it.I suppose it’s impossible to get help because I don’t technically have a specific question…I’m not sure if I should post here or under patterns
I’m no help with socks, but did you see these ravelry notes from another knitter? It mentions the BOR changing an that it changes direction half way up and again later. I realise you aren’t at this stage but you questioned the BOR and I thought maybe this would help? https://www.ravelry.com/projects/sueknits222/albus-argyle-socks
Also this knitter has some detail regarding the intarsia in the round on DPNs and has posted quite a lot of photos with descriptions, especially regarding a loop that has to go all the way around the work which sounds like what you described as your problem with the strand being 2 needles away.
The knitter works with the sock inside out which seems to help the process and means the very long strand can be seen in a photo very clearly with it being on the outside of the knitting (WS of sock)
They also mention a book which you might find useful if yore able to get hold of it.
I wonder too, if you might contact one or two of the members on ravelry who have worked this and ask for assistance? Perhaps the member who posted lots of notes and photos as these seem to be related to the tricky bits you’ve mentioned.
Sorry, it’s possible you read all this and tried all this already. As I said, I am no help with socks, but I hope you find a way forward.
Edited to add. This may also be useless and not the method you’re using at all, but it is intarsia in the round with multiple contrast colours and with DPNs, not magic loop.
Edited again to add. Is there a chance you may need a bobbin/loose strand of the main colour which you work like a contrasting colour even though it is the main colour? Just a thought I had which I’m putting out there as an idea.
I wonder if you take the MC from the right, 2 needles away to make the loop. I need to work this technique (or the short row method) for a pattern that I’ve put on hold but I haven’t tried it yet.
When the BOR shifts, look to the pattern stitches and make sure the pattern doesn’t jog with the shift of marker. The slip stitch is worked on the following row.
Posting here is fine. The forum is small enough that everyone will see your post.
Thank you for the pattern link, GG!
ETA: I notice that about the middle of row 2 there is the instruction to join “new MC” which puts the new strand of the MC nearer than 2 needles away. I haven’t gotten further than that but maybe that helps?
Thank you… I did contact several who completed… As I said initially, one person who did it both ways urged me to do it in the round. I have watched all the videos and understand the concept… the problem is that I am having problems visualizing the pattern (setup rows) because the tutorials are straight forward colour blocks (no increase/decrease) and no changing BOR. I have two MC bobbins and two CC… another issue is that the pattern says CC1 & CC2 but continues to say MC (not 1 or 2) so considering I’m supposed to make a loop I’m not quite sure which MC to do it with once I get to making the second loop (the first loop is simple as there was a MC right there to use but the second loop the MC is VERY far away and I’m not sure if that’s correct.)
I’m sorry - I didn’t think to link the pattern!
Another thing that confuses me - and I’m not sure if it’s error on my part - is that I’m trying to go by the pattern and look at the chart (ie diamonds) but in one row I knitted over the CC with MC (or something like that) I assume that can’t be right or else it wouldn’t be intarsia! Also, in one row (I took it apart and am trying to remember) it said to K6 or P6 with CC but the previous row had only 3…I would assume if it’s a diamond it would be (based on the chart) one increase per side each time…at least I’m consistent - I have the same 6 over 3 (CC) both contrast colour sections. Unfortunately I can’t get through the setup rows! I feel like if there were none I’d have less problems because I know how to read a chart If there IS a MC directly to the right then I must be doing something wrong because I have one directly to the LEFT and the other is pretty far away on the right.
I restarted and now the st I slipped at the beginning IS the MC (so it’s to the right) but I’ve lost track of where I am… I’ve redone my ‘test’ 3 times and have yet to start the chart
The person whose socks you linked is the one who did them both flat and in the round… I spoke with her because of that and it was she who said not to do them flat with a seam.
Yes, the contrast color should increase by 2sts, one on each side of the forming diamond. Which size are you making?
I see Row 1: k2(1,1) going to Row 2: p4(3,3) to Row 3: p6(5,5). That seems right for 2-stitch increases.
Would you consider trying this with a single CC in order to simplify the pattern?
I tried the first 2 rows on a small swatch on dpns and came away with:
Pull the next color in a loop from the nearest strand to the right no matter how far
Pass the small ball of MC through the loop of CC to lock
Yes but it wasn’t on each side for me oddly… it was 3 sts CC then next round was 6 sts (ie the first st in the 3 and first in the 6 started at the same point (the 6 didn’t widen evenly centred) - I hope I’m explaining better).
I started with using scrap yarn in main and the same colour scrap for both CCs but got confusing so whe I started over I made the CCs two different colours - is that what you mean?
I made a smaller swatch so I didn’t pay attention to the number of main color sts. I wanted the CC yarn diamonds centered so that’s what I did.
What am I missing? These are the stitch numbers I see for the beginning of the pattern. I don’t see the jump from 3 to 6sts.
Only thing I can think of is that I did short rows and stacked something? I have no idea. In one of the tutorials they knitted 4 sts CC and turned before knitting the last two (MC) sts then continued on WS with CC…then picked up the MC after the 4 CC sts and used that around including the 2 missed sts from before… that’s short row to me… so maybe I’m not getting the concept of it being intarsia+short row?
What am I not seeing? I don’t see how I am starting the chart with already 6 sts… (I just realized!! . it’s row 4 of chart and row three curved into the round is 3 on each side) Obviously I’m having a serious issue envisioning for some reason and that’s why I’m blocked somehow with understanding (if that makes ANY sense) because I’ve done it twice now and it ends up the same (and my confusion kicks in at the 3rd round each time.).
I’m sorry - it’s impossible to expect someone can make me understand something that is straight forward with no errors - especially if I don’t quite know WHAT I’m not understanding!
Sorry, I just noticed it’s 2 sts on top of 6 (or 2 then 3 then 6?) Regardless, it’s not correct but it’s on both sides.
(would’ve helped to use all solids for my test but…)
I wish we could sit down together and work this out. It’s not a routine technique and I don’t think it’s simple until you’ve practiced it. I’m learning it again going over this pattern.
I do find that a marker helps at the beginning of round (even if that changes) also a marker or note when you put the knitting down. It helps to know which way you’re going (knit or purl) and with which color.
Agreed - I’m sorry… I know it’s impossible to help. As you see in the pic I do have a marker but at this point I’m not even sure where to put it because it’s supposed to shift.
I really appreciate your effort.
I am redoing it AGAIN… this time with all solid colours… just to be clear -am I really supposed to turn sometimes without having finished a round and go back to those sts after? (as I said, i could’ve sworn that in a tutorial video it showed someone knitting 4 sts in colour and when they got to the last 2 sts which were MC they didn’t knit them but turned and went back over the CC and after those they picked up a MC and knitted the rest of the way around including those 2 unworked sts last. I’m not sure how this doesn’t make short rows with higher CC sts if they were worked twice.)
Thank you.
I’ve managed to get to R3 with no mistakes (I think) but just last 2 questions if you wouldn’t mind;
confused about this; Row 3: (RS) Sl 1 kwise from right needle left needle (beg of row moves over 1 st again, as you increase the size of the diamond, sl st will be worked at beg of Row 3), last row it was slipped from left to right and worked last… this time the last st is slipped to the left and worked first?? So BOR is moving towards the right then…? (Can read charts, can follow written but maybe dyslexia preventing me fro blending the two…
I’m back to where the MC it says to loop is 2 needles away… I hope that’s the right one.
If there IS a MC directly to the right then I must be doing something wrong because I have one directly to the LEFT and the other is pretty far away on the right.
