Well, I don't have any photos yet, but here is what got done this weekend: I finished the Left Side, using the US9/US7 needle combination. It did impact my row gauge. Just a little. I went out to the blocking board to look at the BACK...and compare the Left Front pattern panels with the BACK pattern panels. TO MY SURPRISE...all the BACK puckering had disappeared once bone dry. Soooo...all I had to do is frog the BACK down to the armhole cast offs...and am reknitting the armholes up. Another bit of good news: the frogged yarn is knitting up real good, despite the fact that is had been blocked. I wound it into a ball...and as I am knitting, the kinks are kinda just falling out. Sooo...I don't have to use new yarn, nor do I have to monkey around with soaking it & hanging it to dry for days.
However, for the re-knitting of the rev st st on the BACK (the frogged area from the armpits to shoulders) I am using the [color=blue]US7 for Rows 1-3[/color]...[color=green]US8 for Rows 4-9[/color]...[color=blue]US7 for Rows 10-12. [/color] By doing this, the 'appearance' of the re-knitted rev st st overall looks like the bottom half of the BACK. Using the US7 for the first 3 and last 3 rows makes it pucker less at the convergence areas (lace to rev st st and rev st st to lace) It is looking real good. Don't think I will have much problem smoothing the slight puckering. I will block the re-knitted area of the BACK. Will wait to block the Left Front til the BACK is done, and do them at the same time for measurements.
Phew. This cardigan has been challenging. I am determined to get it right. I wonder...if I had used the yarn as shown in the photo...would it have puckered like this? Is there something the designer forgot to say?
Or, a "tip" unmentioned?
I will give you this 'heads up': the "shaping" of the LEFT FRONT and RIGHT FRONT for the armhole edge shaping and neckline edge shaping...and at the same time, trying to work around & with the lace pattern repeats...is maddening. Use stitch markers...and write out exactly which rows will have which decreases. Otherwise, you WILL get mixed up. I still don't know exactly what I did. The confusion is in the converting of the last 3 or 4 stitches at each end to st st...they will eventually be eaten up by the decreases. You must convert them to st st on the row before you need to utilize them. Sometimes a y/o is involved in those last 3 or 4...and here is a mystery: do I create the y/o..or do I skip it? I think I should have created the yarnovers...but I didn't...therefore, my decreasing was more rapidly accomplished. I was down to the 'ultimate stitches' several rows before I should have been. This tells me that I lost 2 stitches at each end instead of 1 at each end...because I had dumped that y/o in converting those end 3 or 4 to st. st. Der. :wall:
Do you follow me? Well, if not...you will later. Just pay great heed to those decreases that occur within the lace pattern. Take your time, and make notes.
The Lace Pattern is a 12 row sequence:
Row 3 (a)
Row 4 (a)
Row 5 (a)
Row 6 (a)
Row 3 (b)
Row 4 (b)
Row 5 (b)
Row 6 (b)
Row 3 (c)
I named some of the rows a, b, or c...to help me identify (for example)which "Row 3" within the pattern needs an armhole or neckline decrease.
Decreases within the rev st st were easy-peasy.
PS: yes, I must confess, I am a perfectionist...only when it comes to knitting, sewing, crosstitching, rubber-stamping & card-making. Although, these days, I really only KNIT! xxx
Amy, thanks for tossing us into the KAL category!